Harpkit/Musicmakers baritone kit build

Top braces glued and shaped. Top glued.
 

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Looking good. I glued my top on tonight also. I'm wondering why the kit doesn't have a bridge plate? The two kits I've built both had bridge plates. I'm wondering if it would be good to add one before attaching the back. I don't know?
 
Ed,

Looking great bud. You are moving right along. Will you put binding on this kit too?

Tom
 
Looking good. I glued my top on tonight also. I'm wondering why the kit doesn't have a bridge plate? The two kits I've built both had bridge plates. I'm wondering if it would be good to add one before attaching the back. I don't know?

I wondered about the lack of bridge plate also. Did the other kits have the fan braces like this one or did they have ladder bracing? I don't know how you'd add a plate now. Wouldn't it have to go under the fan braces?
 
Ed,

Looking great bud. You are moving right along. Will you put binding on this kit too?

Tom

Tom,
I feel like I'm progressing slowly but I'm a perfectionist so I'm used to that. I'm a retired machinist so I tend to obsess about things like measurements and alignment. I will be trying my hand at binding this one.:rolleyes:

Ed
 
A slightly less stressful way to trim the top. Will still have to finish up by hand.
 

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Looking good Ed,

I used a laminate trimmer to and flush cutting bit on my top and back and I did get a little chip out. It will be covered by the binding though.

I am an active social worker so I have to talk to my things and make sure they really really want to change before I work on them.....:D

Tom
 
Top trimmed and walnut corner blocks worked down. I may have to re-think the binding. I was going to use a double layer of walnut veneer but those tight corners will be awfully weak. I figured I'd miter them but it would be sure to chip and break the first time it caught on a pants leg.
 

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A slightly less stressful way to trim the top. Will still have to finish up by hand.

Agree... looking very good Ed. I have a spindle sander and may use that. Got a new laminate trim router and flush cutting bit also... thinking about using that. Hmmm... decisions, decisions.
 
Top trimmed and walnut corner blocks worked down. I may have to re-think the binding. I was going to use a double layer of walnut veneer but those tight corners will be awfully weak. I figured I'd miter them but it would be sure to chip and break the first time it caught on a pants leg.

I ordered some binding from Musicmaker's and their bit to cut the binding channel. Good point about the sharp points, they would certainly need to be rounded to avoid damage. More decisions to make.
 
Using the laminate router worked well trimming the sound board. No mishaps or problems. Just took a little courage to put the machine to it...

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I'm back to work on this project. The tortoise binding arrived today from C.F. Martin.
 

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Fingerboard glued and binding channel cut. That's the old binding channel attachment I got from Stewmac 20yrs ago. It works a lot better with the carbide bit that's available now. The kit comes with CF neck reinforcement already glued.
 

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I'm back to work on this project. The tortoise binding arrived today from C.F. Martin.

That's a sweet set up for fretting! Another thing on my shopping list. I appreciated the fact the fret wire was pre-formed to a nice curve... I used a hammer to install my frets.

The tortoise binding is really cool looking. I have a Vintage Harmony baritone with that same type of binding. I ordered binding from Musicmaker's and their router bit. Unfortunately the binding was .040 but with the binding bearing installed, the router bit cuts an .0625 channel. So, I ordered plain black acrylic .060 binding from stewmac and their binding bit with proper bearing to cut the .060 channel. Don't want to be a copy-cat but now I wish knew the tortoise binding was available from Martin.

What kind of adhesive are you going to use for the binding? Are you going to miter the ends? Installing binding on this kit is quite a bit more complicated with the four joints to deal with.
 
The press is a 1/2 ton Palmgren that I got from Amazon and the arbor and flat caul came from Stewmac. I got the Palmgren because it already has the 3/8" hole drilled to hold the arbor with a magnet.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the ends until I do a dry run and see what works. I'll be using Duco on the celluloid binding. I'm not sure what works on acrylic but I'd think about CA if any of our experts agree. If you haven't already done so check out Stewmac's info on doing binding.
 
Hobo and Ed,

Both of your ukes are looking good. I was kind of fearful with the binding stuff too. I ended up buying a kit like this off of ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/GUITAR-BINDING-JIG-AND-TOOL-FOR-ROUTING-GUITAR-LOW-FOR-LUTHIERS-/260981202390?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item3cc3b11dd6

It holds the laminate trimmer and you put the uke in a holder and move it through the bit. Worked really well for me.

I used an Luthier Mercantile plastic cement for binding but my binding was plastic.

Keep up the great work guys.

Tom
 
Thanks for those tips Tom!
I cut the binding channel and began gluing in the black acrylic strips. I used a stew-mac adhesive called weld-on. It's acetone-based and it sticks to the wood very well. I tested it on a scrap piece and it was near impossible to pull the strips off after a half hour. I think I can use simple butt joints as the material is solid color.

fretboard-body-72.jpgbinding channel-72.jpgbinding taped on-72.jpgweld-on glue.jpg
 
Great! I'm going to use a lap joint also as it's less likely to break than a miter in this application. I've had to do some hand work to clean up the ledge after using my primitive Dremel attachment. It looks like a trim router and proper binding bits is my next tool investment.:)
 
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