For for surface building finishes that are curing too slowly, like perhaps varnish over Cocobolo, youcan actually help them to cure by applying a very thin coat of varnish thinned with naptha, with Japan drier added. Thin is key here, as you do not want the outer layer curing hard, then being drawn in to an 'alligator' skin effect by the layer beneath when it finally cures. Of course you were working in thin layers to begin with anyway. For oil, I have not tried curing a previous layer, but I got the idea to try it a long time ago watching a friend who was oiling a Bolivian Rosewood countertop. I already knew about Cocobolo and how it's natural resins can react with the driers in oil finishes. I think it will help in the case of a finish in process that needs some help curing. As I said, I use Japan drier in my oil finish every time when going over Rosewood. I also carefully wipe with acetone prior to oiling, being mindful of the residue trails that are left, trying to be clean, and wipe off the residue completely before proceeding. It is truly amazing how much resin is in Cocobolo, and can be drained out by acetone.
In using Japan drier, it is very potent stuff, a few drops, maybe up to half a teaspoon in 4 oz if you are really brave ( in thinned oil, not varnish! this is too much for varnish) I often thin my oil over Rosewoods ( and use J. Drier as I said) This allowsdaily, or almost, coats. If you start building a finish, and it is not fully cured ( over a Rosewood, etc) it is possible to wipe bare spots in successive coats. I have not seen this often, but have seen it ( mostly on Ebony) Mix enough oil for one day, and never add the mixed oil ( J. drier added) back into the fresh finish, as it will ruin it. J. drier gives you a 'pot life' of about 12 hours, maybe 24-36 if you are brave and know when to bend the rules.
Experiment! but... Japan drier is your friend....
On a different subject... Shellac will adhere to Rosewoods well