Hand plane suggestion?

I think you mean my Ryoba saw. It's similar to this one wot I found on the net:
https://thebestthings.com/newtools/nakaya_saws.htm

The Best Things is such a pretentious name for a store/ business... however, they also carry Japanese chisels made by the blacksmith Tasai, which are my favorite chisels so far. I also have chisels made by Matsumura, and Miyanaga ( from Japan Woodworker) I like the Tasai best, well worth the money. I also have some lesser quality Japanese chisels I use for brutal things like cleaning glue, or other nasty tasks, the quality difference between the nice hand forged chisels, and the quickly produced types, is very significant. It is a pleasure working with good tools.

Thank you Sven and Chris.

I live in San Jose CA. and my in laws are 45 min. north in San Francisco. There's a hardware store in Japantown that carries Japanese woodworking tools so I'll check it out on my next trip to the in-laws and see if they carry the products/manufacturers you've suggested. Again, thank you. I feel like you guys are saving me time and frustration (and money) in not having to learn through my own experience, which tools work and which tools don't.
 
The Best Things is such a pretentious name for a store/ business...
I can accept paying that much for a chisel (not because I dabble in lutherie, but because I'm a fool) but would you look at the prices at this page?!

https://thebestthings.com/newtools/karl_holtey_planes.htm

Why bother with the .95 at the end of sums like that? Do very rich people even care about tools?

Mind boggling. Phew. I'm getting a beer.

Sven
 
Sven, My gosh, I've NEVER seen anything like that!! I like havin good tools and I'm not afraid of spending for tools that will give a lifetime of service but that's ridiculous. I bought a couple old planes, $30.00 and $50.00 price tags and they work absolutely wonderful.
 
Gary, I realize I'm a little late to the game here, but have you seen these? They're so damn cute!

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32680&cat=1,230,41182

Hey Doug! How was France?

I hadn't seen those yet, but Lee Valley sent me a couple catalogs to look at. Starting to slowly build a hand-tool collection to go along with a bunch of power tools I already own. Still haven't built a bender, but that's next . . . after I hang new towel racks in the bathroom, replace the kitchen faucet, fix an outside faucet etc. etc. etc. I'll get to it before summer is over. I ordered a uke from Rick too. Figured cherry sides and back, adi spruce top.
 
I can accept paying that much for a chisel (not because I dabble in lutherie, but because I'm a fool) but would you look at the prices at this page?!

https://thebestthings.com/newtools/karl_holtey_planes.htm

Why bother with the .95 at the end of sums like that? Do very rich people even care about tools?

Mind boggling. Phew. I'm getting a beer.

Sven



I bet Ken Timms could build it better!!
 
Why bother with the .95 at the end of sums like that? Do very rich people even care about tools?

Mind boggling.
Sven

Because no one in their right mind would pay $7400.00 dollars for a hand tool. But 7399.95? That's a different matter. I just look at these tools and think that there is no way that I have $7400.00 worth of skill.
 
wow, that was shocking... I expected expensive, but that was a bit much. I would like to hold one in my hands, see what it feels like.
 
France was great, Paris is a great combination of monumental grandeur and local ambience.

So have you actually started on your build? I started with the neck, I think I spend 8 hours on it.

Hey Doug! How was France?

I hadn't seen those yet, but Lee Valley sent me a couple catalogs to look at. Starting to slowly build a hand-tool collection to go along with a bunch of power tools I already own. Still haven't built a bender, but that's next . . . after I hang new towel racks in the bathroom, replace the kitchen faucet, fix an outside faucet etc. etc. etc. I'll get to it before summer is over. I ordered a uke from Rick too. Figured cherry sides and back, adi spruce top.
 
Okay, I'll be making a trip to SF on Thursday. In the off chance that they carry good chisels, what sizes should I be looking at and how many different sizes is a "must" to start off with?

And Sven. I already called them and I'm picking up the two saws you suggested.

thanks again,

-Gary
 
I would go with 1/2" first, then, either 1/4" or 3/4" -1" If only 2 chisels, then the 1/2" and the 1/4", unless you have a purpose for the longer cuting edge. Also, those Tasai chisels are super sweet. The first time you use one you will appreciate it. He makes much more expensive chisels, that is his professional line. The higher quality Japanese steel is the best in human history.


You do not need a whole set of chisels, a few sizes will work fine.
 
I went back to the saw page that I linked to, and I was surprised to learn that the steel in those saws is Swedish. Makes me wonder why we don't make the saws ourselves up here. As it is, I buy imported stuff in Sweden, made from material exported from Sweden.

And I didn't want to knock that website or the company behind it - it was just on top of a google search for saw pics. Still think that those planes were a bit pricey though.

I think Chris is right about chisel sizes. But I do love my wide chisel, it's 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 inches wide. I dug it out after watching that really old video of the guy (ok Ken, guys) building a uke. The handle was split from banging with a hammer, so I cut it off and rounded the end. Fits snugly in my hand and I use it a lot. One task is to carve the back of the headstock to thickness and a smooth surface. I can make it slightly wedge shaped since I use wooden pegs.

bild-702255.JPG

http://www.argapa.blogspot.se/2012/04/thinning-headstock.html
 
Sven, yes, I agree about the wide one/s.. I was just trying to make the jump in a bit more gentle, as mostly, the narrower blades work.

Most important, get the good ones, hand forged by a good maker. The lesser quality white steel chisels often have flaws in the steel which are both visible, and invisible. Using a well made chisel, and a cheapie, you will feel the difference. Also, the nice ones you will want to take care of, not abuse. They will hold their value, and the nicer ones will increase in value. My chisels are essential and used often.
 
I am also thinking, if you do make the bridge by yourself and want to cut the saddle slot by hand, it will be good to have a 1/8" chisel as well.
I have the Ashley Iles Mark 2 Bench Chisels purchased from the best things. http://thebestthings.com/newtools/ashley_iles_bench.htm
I like it very much. I have also heard that the two cherry chisels are good as well.
Lie-Nielsen or blue spruce chisels are very good, but cost an arm and both legs. Not really necessary..

Above all, learning how to sharpen the chisel is......the most important, doesn't matter what chisels you buy. You gotta sharpen them.
 
I'm a former sushi chef and my dad is a top-notch machinist so I'm not worried about the sharpening :)

"The Best Things" is probably a bad job translating job rather than a cocky claim about products.

You guys are awesome. I'm thinking of going with 1/8, 1/4 and 1/2 to start with, but you have me thinking about something wider now as well.
 
I'm a former sushi chef and my dad is a top-notch machinist so I'm not worried about the sharpening :)

"The Best Things" is probably a bad job translating job rather than a cocky claim about products.

You guys are awesome. I'm thinking of going with 1/8, 1/4 and 1/2 to start with, but you have me thinking about something wider now as well.

I found a local source for the Tasai chisels. They also had similar saws (number of teeth, length, width) but they weren't the same brand. I was going to try to keep my money local if possible, but I'll probably order from "The best things" if you guys think the saws are definitely worth it.

Thank you for such helpful information,

-Gary
 
Gary - most Japanese saws I've used have been very good, with small if any differences between them. I did have an American "Japanese style" saw that I didn't like at all.

So I say buy a Japanese one, maybe it'll be made of Swedish steel. I accept prices around 50 USD, spare blades are about 35. Saws in that range give me months of service, at least.

If I was planning on leaving any sawn surfaces visible I'd probably justify more expensive saws, but it's always sanding, planing or scraping going on in the end.

Sven
 
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