Playing Ukulele while Standing?

I use a strap standing or sitting with my tenor. It freed my left hand up and made many chords much easier for me. I wouldn't play without one now.
 
Did you ever get around to putting the fake screw heads on the fabric, as I suggested oh-so long ago?

Just wondered....


-Kurt​

I've used spray trim adhesive (sort of an aerosol rubber cement) to glue strips of non-slip shelf lining to the back of most of my ukes (yes, even the KoAloha). The ones I've done that to never slip. I haven't done it to my sopranos because I don't seem to need it.

I'm probably going to put strap buttons on my tenors though since they already have pickups and endpin jacks.

I definitely need a strap for the baritone but haven't put buttons on yet.

John
 
I have a high hold as well....Forearm and boob, no strap required!

I'm a forearm and boob man myself. Umm, that came out wrong.

Although, there probably is a blog about it...
 
Did you ever get around to putting the fake screw heads on the fabric, as I suggested oh-so long ago?

Just wondered....


-Kurt​

Hah-haa. I remember that - but, no, never have gotten around to it. Would make great heart-attack inducing pictures in the uke p*** thread, wouldn't it!
 
I found that I get much more volume from my ukes when I am sitting, because I am not holding the uke against my body. That extra volume (and nicer tone) might be handy when performing. How about performing on a tall stool (sometimes Jake does this for a few songs during a concert). I would not be able to successfully play anything remotely complicated without some kind of strap.

–Lori
 
Whistle vs. Electronic Tuner

"for people just learning to play any instrument, do not buy an electronic tuner, get a whistle tuner and train your ear to be able to tune. ridiculous to learn how to play an instrument and never learning to tune first. electronic tuners are for stage playing when you can't hear your instrument properly, not at home trying to learn something"

As a long-time professional tuner, this sounds insane to me. If you're learning to play the ukulele, you're learning to play the ukulele. The tuning technique or device you use should be the one that wastes the least time getting you there.

If you're learning to tune (an entirely different endeavor), I agree you need to put away the electronic tuner. It's precisely as useless as the whistle. To accurately tune an instrument with a tempered scale, like an ukulele, a guitar, or piano, one string should be tuned to A440 (or other desired standard) and the rest of the strings must be tuned to that string and to each other. So, even if you can "train your ear" to tune with the whistle rather than the electronic device, you're still not learning to tune.

Because of my background in the purely technical/mathematical science of tuning, I can tune my instruments more accurately without either. But, of the two I much prefer the electronic tuner over the whistle. It's not better, just easier for me.

If you have one that works for you, why buy the other? The best tuner is the one that gets you playing. In my opinion, it's best to save "training your ear" for the music you'll be making.
 
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"for people just learning to play any instrument, do not buy an electronic tuner, get a whistle tuner and train your ear to be able to tune. ridiculous to learn how to play an instrument and never learning to tune first. electronic tuners are for stage playing when you can't hear your instrument properly, not at home trying to learn something"

As a long-time professional tuner, this sounds insane to me. If you're learning to play the ukulele, you're learning to play the ukulele. The tuning technique or device you use should be the one that wastes the least time getting you there.

If you're learning to tune (an entirely different endeavor), I agree you need to put away the electronic tuner. It's precisely as useless as the whistle. To accurately tune an instrument with a tempered scale, like an ukulele, a guitar, or piano, one string should be tuned to A440 (or other desired standard) and the rest of the strings must be tuned to that string and to each other. So, even if you can "train your ear" to tune with the whistle rather than the electronic device, you're still not learning to tune.

Because of my background in the purely technical/mathematical science of tuning, I can tune my instruments more accurately without either. But, of the two I much prefer the electronic tuner over the whistle. It's not better, just easier for me.

If you have one that works for you, why buy the other? The best tuner is the one that gets you playing. In my opinion, it's best to save "training your ear" for the music you'll be making.

I have never cared for the pitch pipes. I like my Snark electronic tuners. But I also plan on just getting a bunch of A440 tuning forks, one for each instrument. Back when I first learned to play guitar, that's how I did it. Tune the "A", and everything else relative to it.


-Kurt​
 
I put a set of strap buttons on my Fender a few hours ago (one in the usual place, and one under the neck) and immediately found that a couple of pieces I just couldn't play at all were almost easy. Some chord changes require putting 100% of your effort into changing position of fingers/wrist/forearm/elbow, and when 20% or more of that is just going into stopping the fecking thing falling onto the floor, it makes practising impossible.

ps. I should add that I'd tried with just an endpin and anchoring the strap in various positions on the headstock and found it too distracting, not to mention the strap kept getting in the way of certain first position chords.

The very piece itself. Yes, it's still crap, but without a strap I couldn't even get to the second bar without totally screwing up. A strap allows your fingers/hand/wrist/arm to do what it's designed to do, instead of having to hold the damn slippery bastard of an instrument.

 
Excellent vid! Strapless I do not have that kind of mobility and there is also a cost in terms of resonance. One day I will devote some time and energy to finding the right strap. Just not today!
 
"for people just learning to play any instrument, do not buy an electronic tuner, get a whistle tuner and train your ear to be able to tune. ridiculous to learn how to play an instrument and never learning to tune first. electronic tuners are for stage playing when you can't hear your instrument properly, not at home trying to learn something"

As a long-time professional tuner, this sounds insane to me. If you're learning to play the ukulele, you're learning to play the ukulele. The tuning technique or device you use should be the one that wastes the least time getting you there.

If you're learning to tune (an entirely different endeavor), I agree you need to put away the electronic tuner. It's precisely as useless as the whistle. To accurately tune an instrument with a tempered scale, like an ukulele, a guitar, or piano, one string should be tuned to A440 (or other desired standard) and the rest of the strings must be tuned to that string and to each other. So, even if you can "train your ear" to tune with the whistle rather than the electronic device, you're still not learning to tune.

Because of my background in the purely technical/mathematical science of tuning, I can tune my instruments more accurately without either. But, of the two I much prefer the electronic tuner over the whistle. It's not better, just easier for me.

If you have one that works for you, why buy the other? The best tuner is the one that gets you playing. In my opinion, it's best to save "training your ear" for the music you'll be making.

Well, this makes an awful lot of sense as well!
 
Excellent vid! Strapless I do not have that kind of mobility and there is also a cost in terms of resonance. One day I will devote some time and energy to finding the right strap. Just not today!

I've just found the "Police Line Do Not Cross" strap that Bruce Shimabukuro uses on an English website. I think I'll order one next week.
 
ok .. so you all must be holding your uke incorrectly while standing...

well, firstly, if you are picking a song, like real picking, not just repeat a pattern picking in place of a a strum, but like jamming a mean picking sound, using rest-picking, not free-air picking, u almost always should be sitting down, like on a bar stool, or other stool without arms....

but if your just plucking a song or strumming, then you should rest the face of the body of the ukulele on your right fore-arm (if u play right-handed) then bring the bottom side edge under your ribs, so your ukulele is really almost upside-down.. or at least facing towards the ground at about a 45-degree angle down-forward.. and your finger strum should be actually like strumming the ukulele upside down..

and you want to create a little box with your bicep, chest, body, and back of your ukulele, so the sound resonates from the back side of the ukulele and makes a louder sound in that little chamber you made with your body..

holding it this way ensures no pressure is on the front or back panels of the ukulele where all the sound comes from, and no pressure is on the side panels either, so the ukulele can make its most vibrant and brilliant sound possible.. as the only place it makes contact with you is along the corner where the back meets the side, which is up under your ribs, or against your body, and the corner where the side panel meets the front panel, which is on your strumming fore-arm..

thats the standing position..

however, i usually make a little strap to hang the ukulele from by the inside of the hole in the front.. like a mobile-phone strap, that works pretty great too.. they sell them special made for ukes, or at least they used to..
 
i've actually also tied a very thin string straight around the smallest part of the body, right by the hole... then made a knot and took the string straight to the top of the neck, tied it around the neck, then pulled the string tightly between those two knots, then ran the string back and tied it off in two places about a 1cm apart, before before taking it back to the first knot, then just clipped directly into that 1 cm tied-off space with a regular ID badge neck strap..

or I've tied a string snugly around the middle part of the uke then took it straight to the neck making a tight line between the two points, then just tied a little loop on the prefect balancing part of that string between the center of the body and the top of the neck.. so its hanging with the neck facing up at a 45 degree angle, where i want my hand to be, then tied a little loop at that point, and clipped directly into that loop with a regular badge strap...

the string around the body was so small i didnt really notice any sound difference, and it allowed me to keep the ukulele off my body completely most of the time.. i just used the little black braided nylon string you get from Chinese necklaces etc..
 
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I did the trick with the 3M Command Hooks to install a cheap no-drill hook to my uke to add a strap.

http://themissy.com/2011/quick-cheap-no-drill-ukulele-strap

i think then the strap goes around your body, which is likely to pull the back panel of the uke onto your belly and stop the resonance of the back panel and cause your uke to become less powerful and far-reaching

the best kind of uke strap is something with a hook like this:

http://ts2.mm.bing.net/thumb/get?bid=qbh7sNfoZ4spIA&bn=CC&fbid=7wIR63+Clmj+0A&fbn=CC

and then it hooks on to your uke like this:

http://ukeeku.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/ukestarinuse.gif

so the hook goes into the hole while the uke hole is facing your body, then its flipped up towards your chest..

the image in that photo is probably a bit too high, but the reason for the strap going under it is so your ukulele can rest on the strap out away from your body, and not rest on your body, so the sound can still resonate more and travel further and be more full..

i suppose it could be redesigned to have a line that ties around the neck of the uke, to stabilize it even more for picking, and the back could be redesigned to have a bit wider support network and even less contact on the body of the uke itself, such as with straps that have a raised rubber rib down the middle or something.. and the straps on top could be lengthened to give even longer size adjustment for bigger guys who like to jam it lower..
 
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i think then the strap goes around your body, which is likely to pull the back panel of the uke onto your belly and stop the resonance of the back panel and cause your uke to become less powerful and far-reaching

the best kind of uke strap is something with a hook like this:

http://ts2.mm.bing.net/thumb/get?bid=qbh7sNfoZ4spIA&bn=CC&fbid=7wIR63+Clmj+0A&fbn=CC

and then it hooks on to your uke like this:

http://ukeeku.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/ukestarinuse.gif

so the hook goes into the hole while the uke hole is facing your body, then its flipped up towards your chest..

the image in that photo is probably a bit too high, but the reason for the strap going under it is so your ukulele can rest on the strap out away from your body, and not rest on your body, so the sound can still resonate more and travel further and be more full..

i suppose it could be redesigned to have a line that ties around the neck of the uke, to stabilize it even more for picking, and the back could be redesigned to have a bit wider support network and even less contact on the body of the uke itself, such as with straps that have a raised rubber rib down the middle or something.. and the straps on top could be lengthened to give even longer size adjustment for bigger guys who like to jam it lower..

Those straps work fine assuming you're not endowed in the chest area. That's when things start to get tricky. I always felt that the Kiwaya strap I had caused the uke to tilt forward.
 
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