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Thread: Hole diameter for MISI pick up, drill bit size.

  1. #21
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    Oct 2010
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    Bellingham, Washington
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    Quote Originally Posted by danged View Post
    Can anyone tell me what diameter drill bit I need to use to install a MISI pick up end pin jack? I'm about to install a MISI pick up in a Kanile'a Tenor, any tips would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks, Edgar
    Edgar, if you have not drilled the hole yet, get a
    1/2 inch step drill,drill a smaller entry hole first large enough to get the step drill entered, it is safe, easy and will not rip up your uke.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    California
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    Chuck, wouldn't safety wire be a better choice then plastic zip ties for securing the extra wire? Over time the zip ties will become brittle and break. I know instruments like the ones you build will most likely be handed down from generation to generation and a zip tie would never last that long.

  3. #23
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    Dec 2009
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    cairns, australia
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    Zip ties are the standard cable securing method in the electrical industry. This is because they are the best cable securing method. They are amazingly hardy, surviving many decades in very harsh environments. The conditions required to harm zip ties isn't going to be too good for any uke.
    Liam Ryan.
    Cairns, Australia.
    Stump Jump Ukulele Co.
    Stump Jump on Facebook

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Cerritos, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moore Bettah Ukuleles View Post
    Thanks Mike, that's interesting to know that it's still too long. The LR Baggs 5-0 pickup has the same problem, as well as a battery wire that is too short for mounting on the neck block.
    Do you guys secure the battery for the Baggs 5.0 on the sides or the back if it's too short to mount on the neck block? I have one that was secured to the top and I took it off as I felt like it prohibited the top from vibrating.

  5. #25
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    Feb 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by nongdam View Post
    Do you guys secure the battery for the Baggs 5.0 on the sides or the back if it's too short to mount on the neck block? I have one that was secured to the top and I took it off as I felt like it prohibited the top from vibrating.
    Just pull real hard, you'll make it to the end block

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewKuker View Post
    Just pull real hard, you'll make it to the end block
    I'll see what I can do...it's just dangling inside the Collings right now. HAHA

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by nongdam View Post
    I'll see what I can do...it's just dangling inside the Collings right now. HAHA
    Oh, crap I was joking, don't pull real hard, I'm sorry, being sarcastic is not always cool...my bad

  8. #28
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    But the bottom would be better than the top for mounting and what you need to do is harness it to the side so the wires aren't loose

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewKuker View Post
    Oh, crap I was joking, don't pull real hard, I'm sorry, being sarcastic is not always cool...my bad
    No worries, I knew it wouldn't reach so was just playing along!

  10. #30
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    Jul 2009
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    Santa Cruz, CA
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    IF you know how to modify a 31/64" or 1/2" drill bit...grinding the flutes for zero rake...then you can go right to the big bit and get the job done quickly. I've posted this here before. It's an old machinist's trick to make twist bits, which are designed for ferrous metals, work well in wood, hard plastics like PlexiGlas (Persepex for you Brits...), and especially brass. I have most of the bits in my shop ground this way for personal safety and clean, no grab drilling in the materials we use most. I can chuck up the big bit and just go at it using a regular end pin hole as a pilot. Never had a problem in hundreds of installations in guitars and ukes. Looks scary, works fine...

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