changing Islander strings

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blue_c94

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Hi guys!

I've had an islander for about a few months now with aquila premium strings from HMS. I deciced to change all the strings to Worth low g clears. I have a problem when tuning the a string. It broke the a string, and when i tried putting on the new one it keeps popping off. I'm tuning it slowly as well. Can anyone help or put up a video that shows how to change strings on a ukulele with bridge pins?

Thanks!
BLue
 
The problem is that the A string is so thin that even when knotted it is too small. The easiest solution I've found is to use a small glass bead (although my Islander came with grommets in the strings like the grommets at the bottom of a banjo string). Sometimes the string will pull through even a bead so I sometimes tie the bead into the knot. No one will see the knot so do what you need to make it big enough. Put enough extra string into the hole so that the knot is not in the channel of the bridge pin. I pretty much hate bridge pins with non-steel strings.
 
The Islander should of had a little aluminum "bead/grommet/whatever" tied to the end of it below the bridge pin. This would prevent the string from pulling through the pin. If you lost the little piece, just replace it with some other bead or maybe even a puka shell.... :cool:
 
The lack of the grommet may explain the slipping but not the snapping.

I have an islander and thing the string situation at the bridge is appalling. Whilst they've taken the Kanilea design, unlike the Kanile'a bridge there are no slots to put the knotted string in hence the need for grommets. Plus the inside finish in the edges on mine were dreadful and the A string was always snapping there. I got inside with a file and smoothed it out which solved the issue.
 
I had the same problem with A string too when using Living Water strings. Unfortunately, I really don't have the tool to smooth off the bead. I am using Aquila for now and will surely try bazmaz's method when I have the opportunity.
 
Thanks guys!

I managed to get it work using the bead thing it came with, but I ended up using aquilas on there instead of the worths. I guess this is the downside to having bridge pins :(
 
Once you get used to the bridge pins they aren't a big deal. Same thing generally with changing strings. One advantage of being a compulsive string changer like me is that string changes get easy,
 
A few days ago I opened my Islander case to find the A string was snapped. Having seen through research that this is common, I took the advice of bazmaz and got out my narrow round file. I filed inside the bridge toward the top of the hole where the string is pulled tight and I haven't had trouble since. When I do a full string change (soon) I'll file each of them.
A very easy fix, yet it should not be required. Why can't this be done before selling? They must be aware of the flaw.
 
I don't have an uke with pins but several guitars. The bridges with pins are mainly used for steel string guitars, where it is thought that a sharp "break angle" helps to exert pressure on the saddle that is supposed to result in more volume and better tone. This is not used for nylon strung guitars and among ukes seems to be most common among the Kanilea/Islander designs. I wonder if the sharp break angle may be detrimental to some of the higher density/brittle string types such as fluorocarbon. There is an inexpensive gadget called a "string sleeve" which is a thin PVC tube similar to what is used in electronics to cover wires that can be put over the string ends, and may provide some protection.
 
I had that breakage problem (snapping) as well with an Islander. I believe it was with the "A" string, and I eventually discovered that the little "grommet" for that string had a very rough edge (or "burr") on it, which appeared to be cutting into the string; the grommets were more aluminum-like than glass-like. So I went to my local craft store and got some smooth glassy ones, and that seemed to solve the issue.
 
Last edited:
Bill Sheehan said:
I had that breakage problem (snapping) as well with an Islander. I believe it was with the "A" string, and I eventually discovered that the little "grommet" for that string had a very rough edge (or "burr") on it, which appeared to be cutting into the string; the grommets were more aluminum-like than glass-like. So I went to my local craft store and got some smooth glassy ones, and that seemed to solve the issue.
Click to expand...

This is what I found on my Islander MST-4 as well. If you have a guitar and use Elixir strings, next time you change strings, cut the grommets from the Elixirs and save them for use on your Islander. They have a finely made grommet which is well polished and has no burrs.
I'd go to the 6mm glass beads I use on other ukes but I don't think they'd drop through the bridge from the top.
 
Last edited:
Swamp Yankee said:
This is what I found on my Islander MST-4 as well. If you have a guitar and use Elixir strings, next time you change strings, cut the grommets from the Elixirs and save them for use on your Islander. They have a finely made grommet which is well polished and has no burrs.
I'd go to the 6mm glass beads I use on other ukes but I don't think they'd drop through the bridge from the top.
Click to expand...

Good idea, Yankee! Thanks!
 
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