DIY Ukulele Stick - progress so far

Hopefully attached is the progress for my home made stick ukulele. Today I put it together just to see how it fits and looks. A couple of things that I've learnt - my pegs are too close together and they aren't long enough. Also the nut which I've glued into place isn't the best fit. I've still to put the frets on and also the fret markers.

What I need to know is should the 12th fret be fitted halfway between the nut and the saddle?

This is my first attempt and I hope to make an improved version so any suggestions for mark II would be appreciated.

you should consider a zero fret instead of a nut. that's not uncommon for builds without a headstock. You'll need to make sure the holes are drilled precisely and consider using a sleeve for the holes so the strings won't cut into the wood depending on the hardness of the wood (probably more applicable to metal strings). Have you spent much time browsing the cigar box nation site?

Having fixed both the nut and the saddle you have little or no room to adjust the intonation. If anyone has a suggestion for how to make something like this allowing the bridge to float I'd love to know. Btw, how did you make the string guides? Those are nice.

First, let me say it looks great so far. Congrats!

I have a manufactured ukulele in this style and there are things I like about it that might help and a couple things I would like different from what you are doing.

The angle of the non-speaking length of the strings becomes a problem in two ways. Makes it hard to tune on the sharper angled ones, and the strings on yours may have trouble staying on the tuners. To solve these difficulties, you might move the tuners as far forward (toward the neck) as possible. If I was doing it, I'd put two of the tuners on the bottom side, further resolving the angle issue. In addition, if you look at the manufactured one like yours, you'll see that the tuners are mounted at an angle. I think this is a great idea (maybe vital).

The other thing you might want to consider is extending the neck further beyond the nut (or zero fret if that's in the works). I see the wish is to make it compact, but the reality is that, with no part of the instrument to rest on your hand at that end, the instrument tends to fly right out of your hands when you play up there. You could be creative and make it decorative in some way. It doesn't need to be big, like a headstock. I would continue it straight up for an inch or so, and cut it back at an angle leaving it longer at the lower (string #1) side. (Maybe copy the angle at the other end for pizzazz) Just my little idea, but here is where you could solve a difficulty with this design and give it your own signature or flare, all in one easy step.

Please keep us updated on your progress.

Thanks bnolson and stevepetergal for you comments. The string guide is actually a tattoo gun handle brought from ebay, I thought it was perfect for the job and comes in a nice variety of colours. I see what you mean about moving the tuners further away, the strings do have a bit of a tendency to ping off. Also I hadn't really thought about having some sort of headstock but I like the idea and can appreciate the practicality of it. The advice is appreciated, thanks

Hi, it would be easier to make this if you made and attached the fretboard (or fretted the neck) before placing the bridge. Use the fret calculator at www.stewmac.com, it's found under fretting supplies or through the 'free information' page.

As for placing the bridge, read the thread Fretboard spacing, it's about a week old. In short, scale length is nut-to-12th times two, but string length is a bit longer since you add a small compensation. For a soprano that'd be around 2-3 mm.

Otherwise I want to compliment you on your first build. Number two will no doubt be even better and really good.

Sven

Sue991 said:

Thanks bnolson and stevepetergal for you comments. The string guide is actually a tattoo gun handle brought from ebay, I thought it was perfect for the job and comes in a nice variety of colours.

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you mean these? getting the right spacing is a big deal. nice find for the handles.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-8pcs-Lo...480?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bfeafa70

bnolsen said:

you mean these? getting the right spacing is a big deal. nice find for the handles.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-8pcs-Lo...480?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bfeafa70

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Yes, that's them. It was the perfect size for what I wanted and mine was from China so really cheap.

I love this kind of design. You look like you are on the right track. I'll just echo the previous thoughts on using a zero fret instead of a nut, and figuring out a way to keep the strings on the tuning posts.

I made something like this last year. It is really fun and sturdy.

DanielHulbert said:

I love this kind of design. You look like you are on the right track. I'll just echo the previous thoughts on using a zero fret instead of a nut, and figuring out a way to keep the strings on the tuning posts.

I made something like this last year. It is really fun and sturdy.

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Hi Daniel, it was your one that made me want to make one. I love the look of it. Interesting to see you went for the machine tuners - do they get in the way at all? Currently my friction tuners don't have enough room to work correctly so I need to change that around. If I end up with one half as good I'll be happy.

Sue991 said:

Hi Daniel, it was your one that made me want to make one. I love the look of it. Interesting to see you went for the machine tuners - do they get in the way at all? Currently my friction tuners don't have enough room to work correctly so I need to change that around. If I end up with one half as good I'll be happy.

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My friction tuners don't get in the way at all. I play around the 12th fret. If you played closer to the bridge, then it might pose a problem.


I love the idea of using a tattoo gun handle. It looks great, and is an awesome way to turn the strings back towards the tuners. How far apart are the grooves for the strings?

It may be a wee bit bizarre, but I quote myself now. Sue991, did you read my advice about the frets? If I were you, I'd sort that before I fixed any issues with the tuners.

Sven said:

Hi, it would be easier to make this if you made and attached the fretboard (or fretted the neck) before placing the bridge. Use the fret calculator at www.stewmac.com, it's found under fretting supplies or through the 'free information' page.

As for placing the bridge, read the thread Fretboard spacing, it's about a week old. In short, scale length is nut-to-12th times two, but string length is a bit longer since you add a small compensation. For a soprano that'd be around 2-3 mm.

Otherwise I want to compliment you on your first build. Number two will no doubt be even better and really good.

Sven

Click to expand...

Sven said:

It may be a wee bit bizarre, but I quote myself now. Sue991, did you read my advice about the frets? If I were you, I'd sort that before I fixed any issues with the tuners.

Click to expand...

I'd have to say that would be the biggest fear of mine in building this type uke. Having the ability to float the bridge a little to get intonation down would make me a lot more comfortable. I've built a fretless cigar box 3 string and a fretless cigar box 2 string bass, but I heavily relied on being able to float that bridge.

Yes I do consider building one of these myself, I have all the materials minus the wood and a scroll saw. I suspect a coping saw might be a little painful for chopping the holes...perhaps a press, spade bit and chisel might do the trick...

or better yet, this thursday and next thursday evening are awana workshops for shaping and building derby cars. They'll have some scroll saws!

I plan to sort out the frets this weekend hopefully. I've ordered some decent wood ready for the mark II version. I'm sure you are right about doing the frets first before the bridge. I may have to move it around once the frets are done. It's all a learning curve and I'm enjoying the process.

Sue991 said:

I plan to sort out the frets this weekend hopefully. I've ordered some decent wood ready for the mark II version. I'm sure you are right about doing the frets first before the bridge. I may have to move it around once the frets are done. It's all a learning curve and I'm enjoying the process.

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I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

I've also been following this build: ukeland.co.uk/article/category/building-electric-ukuleles/sharkfin
He has had to overcome some of the same issues that you've had.

Good luck!

I like this a lot! From your picture, it appears that you have screwed the bridge into place. A simple way of being able to set intonation would be to elongate the holes that the screws pass through allowing you to "rock" the bridge forward and backward as necessary.
BTW, how is the volume? Any plans to electrify it?

Habanera Hal said:

I like this a lot! From your picture, it appears that you have screwed the bridge into place. A simple way of being able to set intonation would be to elongate the holes that the screws pass through allowing you to "rock" the bridge forward and backward as necessary.
BTW, how is the volume? Any plans to electrify it?

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Funnily enough that thought can to me today (enlarging the holes for attaching the bridge). Once I am happy with the style and fit then I'll see about the electronics. Currently it's nice and quiet which is excellent for my playing...

DanielHulbert said:

I love the idea of using a tattoo gun handle. It looks great, and is an awesome way to turn the strings back towards the tuners. How far apart are the grooves for the strings?

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To be honest the grooves are closer than I would ideally like - just slightly under 1cm.

Sue991 said:

To be honest the grooves are closer than I would ideally like - just slightly under 1cm.

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doing some searching it seems like many ukeleles are somewhere roughly between 1.1cm and 1.4cm at the bridge.