ukuleleCraig
Well-known member
A Style "1" this time
Heyup Ken - As always, very well made indeed.
Just wanted to ask what technique you use for forming the fret board curve at the body? Have you posted or youtubed it in the past..?
What's happening in your shed?
- Thread starter BR Ukuleles
- Start date
Heyup Ken - As always, very well made indeed.
Just wanted to ask what technique you use for forming the fret board curve at the body? Have you posted or youtubed it in the past..?
Timbuck
Well-known member
Titchtheclown
Well-known member
Acting on a tip given by Ken in an old thread I got onto ebay and looked up how much a Diamond coated core drill bit would set me back
Saw a set described as "3mm ( 1/8" ) to 12mm ( 1/2" ) Diamond coated drill bit hole saw core drills set." for $9.99 in our Australian dollars
Have not got too serious with it yet but so far it has made short work of making dots out of wood, an old lamb bone, oyster shells, and believe it or not a beer bottle. The sizing of the bit is to the outer hole, which is about 2.5mm wider than the dot left over. I.e I got a 8.6mm dot out of a beer bottle using the 11mm bit.
Well worth the price so far.
P.s. I saw two types, one with a 1/8 dremel size shaft and one which is hollow through to the end for drills, which is what I bought. The hollow one would be easier to get the dots out of as you can stick a nail all the way through.
Saw a set described as "3mm ( 1/8" ) to 12mm ( 1/2" ) Diamond coated drill bit hole saw core drills set." for $9.99 in our Australian dollars
Have not got too serious with it yet but so far it has made short work of making dots out of wood, an old lamb bone, oyster shells, and believe it or not a beer bottle. The sizing of the bit is to the outer hole, which is about 2.5mm wider than the dot left over. I.e I got a 8.6mm dot out of a beer bottle using the 11mm bit.
Well worth the price so far.
P.s. I saw two types, one with a 1/8 dremel size shaft and one which is hollow through to the end for drills, which is what I bought. The hollow one would be easier to get the dots out of as you can stick a nail all the way through.
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Titchtheclown
Well-known member
Might I say that is a very good brigantine on the headstock even if I do say so myself.
A captain Jack Sparrow Uke made for the girls in the group Sparrow Folk http://www.sparrow-folk.net/
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David Newton
Well-known member
While Ken goes about his day making remarkable new Ukuleles, I'm going about re-making busted ones.
30's Martin 3M
30's Martin 3M
Michael Smith
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View attachment 67858
I'm sure you are but for new guys and gals do your core cutting in a tray of water with the shell underwater.
I'm sure you are but for new guys and gals do your core cutting in a tray of water with the shell underwater.
Timbuck
Well-known member
While Ken goes about his day making remarkable new Ukuleles, I'm going about re-making busted ones.
30's Martin 3M
That coming together great Dave...It will play again no doubt.
Timbuck
Well-known member
I'm building a 17 fret Soprano...Why should you want to do that???? I hear you say.......Well!! the reason is, that I cut the rosette channel too big on the diameter, and I had to split the rosette to fit it in the groove....So I made up a 17 fret FB...So now the pointy bit on the end of the fretboard will cover up the gap
.......Well!! the reason is, that I cut the rosette channel too big on the diameter, and I had to split the rosette to fit it in the groove....So I made up a 17 fret FB...So now the pointy bit on the end of the fretboard will cover up the gap 
Timbuck
Well-known member
Hi Romski...and welcome.....That set up looks like a more advanced version of an experimental jig by David Hurd, that I came across some time back....Tell us more about it
http://www.ukuleles.com/Technology/compensate.html
http://www.ukuleles.com/Technology/compensate.html
RPA_Ukuleles
Well-known member
Oh wow, the Intonator 5000 by Romsko I want one!!
Absolutely, it is a slightly improved version of the David Hurd compensation jig, not perfect but changing from one scale length to another is easier thanks to the "string changer" (one bolt). Also it is a four string version with movable saddles, otherwise it is pretty the same. For sure one can use it as a lap steel uke.
Timbuck
Well-known member
Just completed another copy..I'm getting closer all the time...One day I'll make a proper fake.. dings scratches and all that
Timbuck
Well-known member
Nice job you made of it too
...I sold mine a couple of years ago to a guitar builder who wanted it just to sand the backs of headstocks..I have a Jet 10-20 now...I sometimes wish i'd paid a bit more and got the 16-32 model instead...but the 10-20 works ok for now.
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Nice job you made of it too
Thanks! That Jet must run like a champ. The one I made gets the job done after a few passes, sanding the thickness by hand is not my idea of a good time and should not be common practice. The sander was faster to build.
This site has such talented builders. I hope to get there someday. As for now here is a pic of the Tobacco Faded Uke im making so me and a friend can play together. This will be my 2nd build and it will be finished this Saturday night for a little jam session. 
gerardg
Well-known member
Hello.
My latest uke in progress.
A soprano Santo style, mahogany back and sides,
flamed mapple top, herringbone fingerboard, cedar neck not so thick,
cressent moon shape with carbon tube stringer neck.
French polish in progress (14 steps, with sand paper, grit # 400 to #2000).
All the buiding story in my website.
Au revoir à tous.
Gerard.
My latest uke in progress.
A soprano Santo style, mahogany back and sides,
flamed mapple top, herringbone fingerboard, cedar neck not so thick,
cressent moon shape with carbon tube stringer neck.
French polish in progress (14 steps, with sand paper, grit # 400 to #2000).
All the buiding story in my website.
Au revoir à tous.
Gerard.
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