What's happening in your shed?

If you can figure out the square hole thing, I'd love to know.

For small square or flat sectioned holes, purchase a set of mini files at a '$' shop and grind or belt sand two sides off the square sectioned file. This leaves two rough and two smooth surfaces at right angles. Be sure not to break the tapered section. The resulting smooth sides can be rounded over to prevent binding in use. Don't completely triangulate the file as this will weaken it significantly, making it prone to bending or snapping (depending on quality). Unmodified square files will bind in the hole, making the squaring process next to impossible.
If the tapered section is maintained, quite small holes can be squared by approaching from both ends.
 
For small square or flat sectioned holes, purchase a set of mini files at a '$' shop and grind or belt sand two sides off the square sectioned file. This leaves two rough and two smooth surfaces at right angles. Be sure not to break the tapered section. The resulting smooth sides can be rounded over to prevent binding in use. Don't completely triangulate the file as this will weaken it significantly, making it prone to bending or snapping (depending on quality). Unmodified square files will bind in the hole, making the squaring process next to impossible.
If the tapered section is maintained, quite small holes can be squared by approaching from both ends.
Thanks, that's good information to know.
 
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Another Titch the clown ukulele about to be sent to its new owner. A band sawn bowl back pineapple shape with flat stand alone bottom and lutish embelishments. Monterey pine body jarrah fretboard, shell fret dots, sealed tuners and flourocarbon fishing line strings.
 
My latest baritone ukulele is coming along nicely. The neck is finished, and I spent several hours yesterday cleaning up the bindings and making a pair of ukulele bridges, including this one. The parts for my small body, short scale 6-string guitar project are in the background.

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My latest baritone ukulele is coming along nicely. The neck is finished, and I spent several hours yesterday cleaning up the bindings and making a pair of ukulele bridges, including this one. The parts for my small body, short scale 6-string guitar project are in the background.

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Nice! Interesting headstock.
 
Nice! Interesting headstock.
Thanks. I have a concert cigar box uke with a similar headstock that I will be gluing the bridge on and stringing after I let the finish cure for another week or so. I was inspired to use that shape when I saw some of the work of fellow forum member David Hanson: https://img1.wsimg.com/isteam/ip/53...2/9d04fee3-6fb7-47b5-8cd7-8ea325ec574a.JPG/:/ The Hawaiian luthier Sam Kamaka, Jr. made a set of cigar box ukes using a similar head shape years ago.
 
Making of a sound port. Sticky-backed sandpaper is attached to the ukulele upper bought, and a Koa ring rubbed against the sandpaper until it fits the profile of the ukulele body. The sandpaper is removed, and the outline of the wood oval is traced onto the body. Once the shape is carefully cut out of the body, the oval ring is glued in place and sanded to the profile of the body, becoming both a decorative and reinforcing ring for the sound port.

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Making of a sound port. Sticky-backed sandpaper is attached to the ukulele upper bought, and a Koa ring rubbed against the sandpaper until it fits the profile of the ukulele body. The sandpaper is removed, and the outline of the wood oval is traced onto the body. Once the shape is carefully cut out of the body, the oval ring is glued in place and sanded to the profile of the body, becoming both a decorative and reinforcing ring for the sound port.

That's a good way to get the right contour, but I can't imagine cutting the hole accurately enough that the ring would be a good fit.

My tennis racket build has stalled as more pressing things have needed my attention.
 
That's a good way to get the right contour, but I can't imagine cutting the hole accurately enough that the ring would be a good fit.

My tennis racket build has stalled as more pressing things have needed my attention.
You just have to sneak up on the cut, leaving a tiny bit of real estate inside the oval, and slowly working at it with a dowel wrapped in coarse sandpaper. Check the fit of the oval often. It's a lot of work, but I've done it a few times with other instruments.

Neat idea How do you cut the oval ring?
The ring was CNC cut, although I have previously cut wood oval rings with a mini router and an oval template.
 
The oval ring is fitted in place and will be sanded flush once the glue has cured. I left the back open so I can clean up the back of the ring easily. I'm also going to install the Aloha Twin before putting on the back.

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The long finishing process has begun on the baritone uke body. The first layer of epoxy resin pore fill has been applied to the back. I'll do the body in stages, first the back, then each of the sides. I like how the bees wing figure has already started popping in the Black Walnut.

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While I will likely save this wood for my Winter project, it will eventually become a baritone scale guilele. Bear claw Sitka Spruce for the soundboard, Maple for the neck, Ebony for the fretboard and bridge, and Black Cherry for the back and sides. But first I need to finish the baritone uke I showed a couple of posts back, as well as my 23" scale steel string guitar project that I put on hold earlier this year while I built a slew of ukes. I still play guitar, but I'm finding more and more I'm not comfortable with a full size body and fretboard, which is why I'm building the small body, short scale steel string.

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They might as well send you a photo of a small sapling and ask you to be patient.

John Colter
 
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