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Thread: Has anybody successfully removed Epiphone pickguard?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Default Has anybody successfully removed Epiphone pickguard?

    Got me a nice Epiphone Ukulele and it's fine, maybe need a tweak or two though. The only thing is the pickguard which looks chunky with rough edges. All tutorials i see are for thin type pickguard removal and not thick plastic like this. It's a shame to have the Vintage burst ruined by a rubbish pickguard which is pointless on a Ukulele anyway.

  2. #2
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    Jul 2010
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    I wouldn't do it.
    Last edited by fernandogardinali; 08-29-2013 at 07:03 AM.

  3. #3
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    Aug 2013
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    Yeah i know it's risky but i'm struggling with the demon on my shoulder!

  4. #4
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    Feb 2012
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    I'd be on the side of not doing it either. Who knows what's under there and if it would even be possible to clean it up so it looked and felt nice. My thoughts are that if you are going to do it then be prepared to refinish the entire top.
    Ohana CK-42R - all-solid concert, sinker redwood top, rosewood body, maple binding, Ltd. Edition
    Kala KA-FMCG- solid/lam concert, spruce top, spalted flame maple body, mahogany binding
    Ohana CK-120G - all-solid concert, 5A acacia top sides and back, mahogany binding, Limited Edition
    Ohana SK-30M - all-solid mahogany long neck soprano (concert scale)
    Romero ST - solid/lam concert, spruce top, mahogany body

  5. #5
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    Mar 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brydon View Post
    Yeah i know it's risky but i'm struggling with the demon on my shoulder!
    I would be thinking just like you. Stuff like that bugs me to the point that I can't resist.

    Those Epi's look great, and they'd look even greater without the pickguard.

    [I never understood pickguards, even on guitars. Totally unnecessary, and often detracting from the beauty of the instrument.]
    +

    Frank

    Picco Music
    Micro Scale Instruments - featuring the PiccoBass guitar-scale Bass
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  6. #6
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    Aug 2013
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    One thing that is for certain is that the strings that she came with were awefull! Totally dead sounding with no ring to speak of. She was completely transformed when i changed her out to Aquila's... 10 minutes ago. Man they go out of tune fast when new!

  7. #7
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    Jan 2013
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    UK
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    I've just got some LWS to go on, once I receive the bone nut and saddle blank that's on it's way.

    Totally agree that the stock strings sound completely dead!

    As for the pick guard, from some gentle prying off of the edges, it seems to be stuck on with some rubberised contact glue, which should come away easily enough as long as you do it slowly.

    Mine also has some shabby edges, so I plan to remove it, see what the finish is like underneath and then, if required, I can tidy the edges up and glue it back on - no harm done, but more aesthetically pleasing.

    Let us know how you get on!
    Keith

    Mahalo 2020 Soprano - or at least it used to be! http://www.ukuleleunderground.com/fo...akeover-Thread
    Aria ACU-250 Concert
    Clearwater UCW7T Tenor
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    347

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    I've taken them off guitars. You should be able to get it off without any damage. I used a combinations of softening the glue with a hair dryer and then using naphtha (lighter fluid) to work off the guard. To get started, soak some floss in lighter fluid to work up an edge. However, it is very likely that you will be able to see a footprint from the guard. You can always add a thinner one if you are not happy with the result.

  9. #9
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    Aug 2013
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    I've deliberately not played it much and kept it boxed so as not to get a tan line as I knew as soon as I saw it that it would keep bugging me. This is the perils of mail order, I probably would have thought twice about buying it if I saw it in the flesh so to speak.

  10. #10
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    Aug 2013
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    I can confirm that it comes off without to much problems other than a bit o left over glue that came up with the lighter fluid. No tan line so i'm very happy with the result. I have a controllable temperature plastic welding air gun with a small nozzle though which helped keep the heat low and where i needed it. I'd be careful using a hair dryer to direct the heat away from the bridge area. I worked from that side so as not to affect the glue on the bridge. I had a bridge pop off my exotic mahogany Kala with it sitting doing nothing and i never tampered with that at all. Nothin some good wood glue couldn't cure though.

    To Sum up, it can be done and be done well but i wouldn't try it with one that's been in the light for too long.

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