Curly Redwood

Kent Chasson said:

Good quality redwood makes a great top. I've built maybe 6-8 guitars with it. I have yet to use it on a uke but wouldn't hesitate. On a guitar, it is similar to cedar in that it is warm with lots of overtones and very fast to respond. It's more crisp sounding than cedar but still has what I call "rounded edges". Well quartered wood is essential in my book because redwood loosed lateral stiffness dramatically once you get a few degrees off quarter.

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That's what I read as well. I personally think cedar is too warm for my taste so I would think I like straight grain redwood. Of course, the builder is important.

As a builder, where do you draw the line? I'm sure most clients say sound is a priority but are drawn to the pretty wood. I know I am

Kent Chasson said:

Good quality redwood makes a great top. I've built maybe 6-8 guitars with it. I have yet to use it on a uke but wouldn't hesitate. On a guitar, it is similar to cedar in that it is warm with lots of overtones and very fast to respond. It's more crisp sounding than cedar but still has what I call "rounded edges". Well quartered wood is essential in my book because redwood loosed lateral stiffness dramatically once you get a few degrees off quarter.

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Thanks for that. Is it safe to assume that the problems with curly redwood won't occur with a straight grain redwood? I'm having some instruments built that will be my first with redwood tops and some of the scary stuff in this thread about redwood has me a little concerned.

nongdam said:

That's what I read as well. I personally think cedar is too warm for my taste so I would think I like straight grain redwood. Of course, the builder is important.

As a builder, where do you draw the line? I'm sure most clients say sound is a priority but are drawn to the pretty wood. I know I am

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One of my lines is that I wouldn't build with flamed redwood but that's my line and I wouldn't say people are wrong for doing it. In the way I approach building, stiffness to weight ratio is primary in a top and flamed redwood is very compromised in that regard. But plenty of people get good results without that as a priority and there is room for different styles of building.

By the way, I did try flamed redwood for a guitar top about 10 years ago. It's holding up fine but my building philosophy has changed and I wouldn't use it again.

Then again, I'll use wood for backs and sides (like Brazilian stump wood) that other builders wouldn't touch so it just goes to show that there are a lot of different opinions out there...

mds725 said:

Thanks for that. Is it safe to assume that the problems with curly redwood won't occur with a straight grain redwood? I'm having some instruments built that will be my first with redwood tops and some of the scary stuff in this thread about redwood has me a little concerned.

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The only difficulty with redwood is that it has low peel strength. You have to be very careful when scoring around the bridge not to score into the wood. If you cut too deep, you may well end up with the bridge flying off and taking a chunk of the top with it. But any good builder knows this and can manage it. Not a reason to avoid the wood, imo.

nongdam said:

As a builder, where do you draw the line? I'm sure most clients say sound is a priority but are drawn to the pretty wood. I know I am

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The first line is stability. That is first base.

All who worry about curly redwood should remember all the successful ukes Eric Devine has made with it.

Also, one shouldn't assume that beauty is at the sacrifice of sound quality.

Beau Hannam Ukuleles said:

The first line is stability. That is first base.

All who worry about curly redwood should remember all the successful ukes Eric Devine has made with it.

Also, one shouldn't assume that beauty is at the sacrifice of sound quality.

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Yes Eric does have a uke with a very Curly Redwood top..but he layered some,very straight grained master redwood with it..I played it and the sound was very nice....deep and rich...IMO

oh!- good to know. Thanks

mds725 said:

Thanks for that. Is it safe to assume that the problems with curly redwood won't occur with a straight grain redwood? I'm having some instruments built that will be my first with redwood tops and some of the scary stuff in this thread about redwood has me a little concerned.

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If it makes you feel any better. I have no worries at all about my straight grained Sinker Redwood top with a cocobolo body CR from Rick. The tone and looks are exactly what I was hoping for, and I trust it was built right. Plus,he stands behind his builds. Money well spent.

aaronckeim said:

Yes, we have used curly redwood a fair bit. It looks and sounds great, but yes, it can be a pain to work with. I even saw another builder have a bridge rip one of those curls right off! We leave it a little thick and add a little bracing and it works fine.
A

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It works out very fine indeed. Here's a photo of my MyaMoe curly redwood - sounds as beautiful as it looks.

I can't resist but to share my two cents, albeit redundant. I really love the way redwood sounds. I've built a few tenors with it and I just love the tone. I do leave my tops thicker, and truth is i've never thought of the bridge ripping the wood out. But let me tell you, I really loathe working with this stuff. It dents easier than ANYTHING else and it absorbs everything stupidly. I always seal with shellac, what have you but if you so much as look at this stuff wrong it stains or dents. Finishing it is a nightmare. I have a few sets left, and I'm sure I'm not gonna touch it until a client demands it.

oudin said:

I can't resist but to share my two cents, albeit redundant. I really love the way redwood sounds. I've built a few tenors with it and I just love the tone. I do leave my tops thicker, and truth is i've never thought of the bridge ripping the wood out. But let me tell you, I really loathe working with this stuff. It dents easier than ANYTHING else and it absorbs everything stupidly. I always seal with shellac, what have you but if you so much as look at this stuff wrong it stains or dents. Finishing it is a nightmare. I have a few sets left, and I'm sure I'm not gonna touch it until a client demands it.

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great insights, oudin. i've heard similar concerns with friends in the luthier community on this stuff from a builders' perspective as well. in terms of longevity, i've seen used ukes with highly flamed tops some just a few years old and totally stable (like the one's I've seen from Bob Gleason of Pegasus Ukuleles) but on the other hand I have seen a couple that have developed some major issues with a bridge pull on the soundboard. and that wood does tear. thin soundboard? alternate bracing? a bad set? - i'm not quite sure.

that being said, however, i'm much more opt to go with the tighter grain redwood than the curlier stuff to keep with the integrity of the wood and (crossing my fingers that there will be less issues, if any, with the over the years). will it hold over the years is the key with the wide grained, curly stuff to me.

aloha,
Shawn Y.

http://ukulelefriend.com

I cracked (minor crack) a curly mahogany side last night. Saveable, I doubt it. First I've lost in a while. The back is beautiful so I'll try to pair it up with some other mahogany I have but man, the sides were something.