NUD thread for everyone who received their East-Start arch-top ukulele

I just ordered that second tail piece that Mike mentioned from ebay. All dimensions are basically the same as the tail pieces we have EXCEPT it's 4 string (bass). Dimensions between the strings (15mm) on the tailpiece is approximately what we have on our installed bridges. There maybe an issue of attaching the uke strings to the tailpiece but for $12...I figured its worth a shot. It seems to me that the main "stringing" problem is that 6 string tail piece.
 
Was this not available at the time of order?

c22d7dbae32c76fa26ad9bb724df4fde.jpg

No, hardware not available. Several of us ordered that model, which is a 14 fret 16" scale uke. What we got was 17 fret 16" scale ukes with bridge and tail pieces.
 
I just ordered that second tail piece that Mike mentioned from ebay. All dimensions are basically the same as the tail pieces we have EXCEPT it's 4 string (bass). Dimensions between the strings (15mm) on the tailpiece is approximately what we have on our installed bridges. There maybe an issue of attaching the uke strings to the tailpiece but for $12...I figured its worth a shot. It seems to me that the main "stringing" problem is that 6 string tail piece.

I just had a nice talk with Ryan at Bernunzio.com about the bridge and tailpiece, he sure seems to know what he's talking about. I sent him photos of the uke and the 4 string base tailpiece I found and he believes using that tailpiece will alleviate any issue with the bridge string spacing. I just ordered it from Amazon.
 
Well mine arrived! With the tailpiece setup of course as we all know by now... Doesn't look too bad cosmetically although as others have noted the ends of the frets are very rough, I can fix that. The frets are quite obviously glued in too, lots of glue slopped on the fret board. The nut is also at least 1/32" wider than the neck on each side! This will be trickier but I think I can handle that as well. As received the bridge was very high as others have also reported and the 12th fret compared to the harmonic was noticeably sharp. I've cranked it down quite a bit and that seems to have improved the intonation at the 12th fret considerably. This however exposes a lot of the mounting stud which now pokes me in the hand while I play. May need to shorten that. The action at the nut is also very high and the first 4 frets play pretty sharp. Going to work on that tomorrow. They could have done a better job of buffing and mine has some swirl/sanding marks in the finish. I've tried some automotive buffing compound by hand on a small area and it improved that considerably so I'll probably take all the hardware off and buff it up better.

Here's my biggest gripe, it looks like one of the pickups has a big dent in it. You can also see how much the bridge stud is now exposed.

Pickup.jpg

Overall, while I sound like I'm doing a lot of bitching, I'm pretty satisfied for the price. Sounds good on the amp and it sounds like there is a good bit of hunting going on for replacement bridges so I may do that if a good one surfaces. The bridge could be relocated slightly too and completely resolve the intonation at the 12 fret issue. The bridge mounts with two screws as I think was also mentioned, not free floating...
 
BigPhil, I agree about the higher action at the nut and the playing somewhat sharp on the first 3 or 4 frets (primarily GCE strings). Let me know if you figure a way to resolve this (ever so slightly deepen the grooves at the nut??). Otherwise, mine isn't playing too bad (all knobs work, etc.) I'll just wait on that other tailpiece
 
Yes, that's what I'm going to do although I don't know if I'd say ever so slightly. Mine is pretty high at the nut so I'm taking it down a good bit. I only have files for nylon strings though so I have to borrow some for the much narrower steel 1st & 2nd strings. I could have done the 3rd and 4th strings but I have a gig tonight so no time to fool with it today. Gotta go, when I get it done I'll report my results here.
 
Well, mine hasn't arrived yet so I can't measure it up as I would like. Yet, before you all worry about nut height the very first thing we need to do is measure the accuracy of the nut and saddle placement.

I've made a thread about doing this here,http://forum.ukuleleunderground.com...on-your-uke-A-Measure-it&highlight=intonation

Would somebody mind checking the accuracy the the nut and bridge placement?

Also, ukulele's generally have 12 to 13mm spacing between strings. Bass fittings with 15mm between strings is going to feel VERY wide. Some of the hardware pictured is the Tenor guitar hardware I mentioned and it's 10.5mm between strings. Same spacing as a guitar which may feel a bit narrow for a ukulele player. You can try out if you like this by simply using the inner four slots on the bridge that is fitted.

I will measure mine up accurately when it gets here.

EDIT: I'm talking about spacing at the saddle.

Anthony
 
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Forgot to mention that Ryan said that to be sure the bridge is in the correct position, to measure from the center of the nut to the center of the 12th fret and that should be the measurement from the 12th fret to the where the strings cross the bridge .
 
Well hopefully the centre of the 12th fret to contact point on the saddle is a tiny bit longer than the inside of the nut to centre of the 12th fret. Having the same distance is the theoretical outcome but in reality you need compensation and compensation means it's a slightly longer distance to the saddle from the centre of the 12th fret.

EDIT: CLARIFICATION. I'm talking about spacing at the SADDLE in the previous post. Spacing at the nut is narrower.

Anthony
 
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Inner 4 slots on my tailpiece measure 10mm apart. I tried and WAY too close for me. I'm not minding the 15mm out from the bridge (I have rather large hands).

Add: I measure my Koaloha tenor at the bridge. String spacing is 14mm
 
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15mm should be fine for the tailpiece. My Kamaka HF-2 string spacing is 14.74mm at the saddle, measured middle of the string to middle of the string. Many bass bridges are at 19mm

The fretboard on the east-start is 46.17mm at the 12th fret, and the Kamaka concert is 44.86mm at the 12th.

My East Start measurement from nut to top of bridge is 15 7/8" (403.22 mm) on both sides of the bridge.

for what it's worth, string spacing on my Vintage Martin Soprano is 14mm at the saddle.
 
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Well hopefully the centre of the 12th fret to contact point on the saddle is a tiny bit longer than the inside of the nut to centre of the 12th fret. Having the same distance is the theoretical outcome but in reality you need compensation and compensation means it's a slightly longer distance to the saddle from the centre of the 12th fret.

Mine looks equal distance exactly. That tune-o-matic would have been nice. That said, I've got the action lowered pretty well and the intonation is not bad at all, surprisingly.
 
Well if the nut to 12th fret is the exact same distance as 12th fret to saddle then this will cause some sharpness in the intonation. Nominally you want to find a way to extend the saddle yet sometimes the error is actually in the placement of the nut so before you get carried away I or someone needs to measure the nut and fret placement very accurately.

Anthony
 
Was your Nanny a technical Nerd?

I've followed/offered advise before with the best of intentions only to realise later that the issue was even more complicated than I thought/knew.
Seriously I will be getting out the Vernier callipers when mine arrives and in the mean time I'm going to be a little noncommittal as to exactly what's going on.

Anthony
 
Love this group (smart guys) and this thread is choice. Lots of smile moments.

I've learned a lot!
 
Any delivery yet in aus, I haven't received mine yet today is thursda
 
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