Ukulele Fretboard Radius

Everyone is aking me to build their instruments with radiused fingerboards lately. I'm experimenting with a compound radius. Tighter radius at the nut, less at the saddle or where you strum/finger pick. This setup makes a tenor board that is 12 inch radius at the 12th fret and a bit over t0 at the nut, a little over 14 at the saddle. Those numbers are what the math worked out for a tenor. It makes sense to me to have a tighter radius where you bar and less of a ridus where you strum/pick. Imagining a cone with my fretboard taper that's what you get.

This is a simple jig to do that using an extra belt sander I had. The fretboard gets attached under the carrier board. The curved guide block at the nut end is a tighter radius than the saddle end guide block So much nicer than radiusing with a block by hand.

All my clients ask for a radius on the fret board. I stopped making flat ones a couple years ago.

Mine are 12" at the nut and 16" at the sound hole end.

If you make them a constant radius from one end to the other then the depth of the fret board on it's edges will decrease as you go from nut to soundhole.