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Thread: Fixing Up East-Start Archtop

  1. #31
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    All the electronics in these HAD to go in through the pickup holes, we saw pictures of the bare finished bodies, so that is the only option. You'll have to remove them and reassemble new pots and pickups on the bench, then reinstall as a unit.
    Last edited by bigphil; 04-26-2014 at 01:07 PM. Reason: Spelling
    Big Phil

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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagster View Post
    Mike, being centered between the f-holes is not important. The f-holes may not be symmetrical. Where the strings set in relationship to the fretboard is what should determine your bridge placement.
    The strings are certainly not centered on the pickup, and they're not spaced evenly either.

    Quote Originally Posted by Barbablanca View Post
    I would love to know from Simon (though I doubt if we'd get an honest answer) if the reason they stopped making the versions without a tailpiece was that they'd had problems with the bridge that many of us wanted.
    Replied earlier (or on the other thread) that Simon specifically told me when I complained to him about the improper tailpiece, that their supplier did not have the proper ones, so they just put the full tailpiece on all of them without saying anything.

    Quote Originally Posted by focsle View Post
    When I look at your strings, they seem equidistant from the F holes and they cross the pick up about the same place as well. Just a thought.
    The strings are not centered on the pickups. And the A is too close to the edge of the fret board.

    I'm planning to take it to my luthier on Monday and discuss all the possibilities. He's a master and has repaired the most damaged
    guitars you've ever seen. He's done great setups on a few of my ukes. I'm also going to have him move the volume and tone controls to be front and back position rather than above and below.

    Last edited by kohanmike; 04-26-2014 at 04:28 PM.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by kohanmike View Post
    My entire bridge is not centered, look how much closer it is to the right f-hole. With the ground wire, I'm going to have to be very careful how I go about centering and/or replacing the bridge.

    I find it odd that your bridge is so far forward, relative to the F holes. It probably doesn't matter much for a semi-hollow, but it just looks strange to me.
    Thou Shalt Not.

  4. #34
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    Please excuse crappy phone photography.........

    Mike, here's how I have my strings set up. Aside from the vectoring between the tail and bridge (cough) you can see the strings are running parallel and centered, mostly, along the fretboard.

    Jostle your strings around and see if this set up works a little better for you.

    wagster-albums-alida-uke-picture66127-20140427-000055.jpg

    wagster-albums-alida-uke-picture66126-20140427-000235.jpg


    For those curious about the pickups, here's a few shots for you....

    wagster-albums-alida-uke-picture66131-20140426-224255-2.jpg

    wagster-albums-alida-uke-picture66129-20140426-224228.jpg

    The covers do not pop off. In the second photo you can see the four melt-points that are retaining it. I could not determine if they have pole or blade magnets, but I'd venture to guess they are more likely to be the blade type (or possibly some other conglomeration hitherto unknown to anyone outside the secret East-Start Pick-up Engineering Labratories).
    Sarcasm: Just one more service I provide.


  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagster View Post
    Mike, here's how I have my strings set up. Aside from the vectoring between the tail and bridge (cough) you can see the strings are running parallel and centered, mostly, along the fretboard.

    wagster-albums-alida-uke-picture66127-20140427-000055.jpg
    My bridge is too close to the lower f-hole to get the strings to line up properly. Your bridge is actually closer to the other f-hole, which looks like it makes it easier to get the bridge grooves to line up better.

    I'm figuring my luthier has the expertise to fill the improperly placed holes and drill new ones where they're supposed to be. It's obvious to me now that the bridge has to be steel to make the ground work. I'm also thinking it might be necessary to have a custom metal upper (saddle?) piece made.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagster View Post

    The covers do not pop off. In the second photo you can see the four melt-points that are retaining it. I could not determine if they have pole or blade magnets, but I'd venture to guess they are more likely to be the blade type (or possibly some other conglomeration hitherto unknown to anyone outside the secret East-Start Pick-up Engineering Labratories).
    Thanks for trying. I was going to ask if you could unscrew the cover but they're melted on. Good grief.

    Anthony

  7. #37
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    This little website might well be helpful to some of you ....... especially when looking for custom pickups, bridges, etc

    Www.ukeland.co.uk

    Keith

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  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChaosToo View Post
    This little website might well be helpful to some of you ....... especially when looking for custom pickups, bridges, etc Www.ukeland.co.uk
    Didn't find anything useful for me there. One way or another I'm going to make a metal bridge piece work, I'm tenacious.

  9. #39
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    so which strings do i buy?

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1300cc View Post
    so which strings do i buy?
    My recommendation based on my experience with my current steel string ukulele is to start with a set of electric 10-46's (standard) and use the lightest 4 strings. I'm not 100% sure that this will be the best but its the best place to start. Someone was going to try a lighter set out (starting at 9) but he hasn't reported back yet.

    Anthony

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