installing a wound string

merlin666

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I have successfully changed strings on my ukes that have slotted bridges and all I had to learn was to tie a big knot. But one of my ukes has a tie-bar bridge and I want to install a wound string, which I have never done. I figure I will just follow the pattern of the strings that are already installed, but wonder if there any things to consider for a tie-bar, and tips to make sure that the wound string won't unwind prematurely. Thanks.
 
No real tip other than they can be a bit more difficult because of their thickness. I've found they hold well due to the roughness of the string which grips well in figure 8 tie.
 
No real tip other than they can be a bit more difficult because of their thickness. I've found they hold well due to the roughness of the string which grips well in figure 8 tie.

Steve nailed it, you will have no issues. The wounds hold the wraps wonderfully, never had one slip
 
I have removed some old wound strings in the past and have found that the silver winding often unravels from the string end and becomes hazardous. I want to make sure that this won't happen when I cut the ends.
 
I have never had a problem with a tie-bar, but I have had issues with the knot coming undone on wound strings in a slot bridge, before. These days I put a drop of superglue on the knot and let it dry before installing the strings. It might also help you with your unraveling issue. Don't glue the strings after installing them because you might glue them to your uke.
 
On tie block bridges, you don't have to use a traditional twist tie. I often tie a knot or use a bead:

ramirez_bridge.jpg


Hirade_TH8SS_bridge_3217sm.jpg


Kremona_CW_7_bridge_1264sm.jpg


The advantage of a knot or bead is they don't wear the tie block as much and are less prone to slipping out.
 
On tie block bridges, you don't have to use a traditional twist tie. I often tie a knot or use a bead:
The advantage of a knot or bead is they don't wear the tie block as much and are less prone to slipping out.

Very nice. I'll keep that in mind.
 
Very little. You don't need to worry about it being taut before you start winding, but I wouldn't deliberately create slack either.
 
I've read that a good rule of thumb is the distance from the G post to the C post to leave for winding. (About an inch-and-a-half.)
 
Thanks. Now at the tuner end how much slack do I need to get a few windings on?

Look online, and you'll see recommendations for putting the string through the tuner hole, taking the slack out of the string, and then moving the string from the tuner back to the first fret - or the second or the third (depending on which directions you follow). Then you start winding the string that's at the tuner. Or, you just start winding without pulling the string back.

https://www.ukulelemag.com/gear-reviews/change-your-uke-strings-7-easy-steps
https://ukuguides.com/maintenance/how-to-change-ukulele-strings/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FmrISmF6O3I
 
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I've read that a good rule of thumb is the distance from the G post to the C post to leave for winding. (About an inch-and-a-half.)

Thanks, I started installing the string after reading post #11. With no extra slack I got almost two rounds around the tuner post which I think should hold, though I would have preferred 4. It's an Aquila New Nylgut and I was pleasantly surprised that it seemed to stay in tune after only about half hour of playing and tightening up after each song. But I am not pleased with the grey colour that rubbed off on my strumming finger and I will see how long it will last. Does anyone have experience with the d'Addario NYL026w guitar string for use with a tenor uke? I am wondering how its sound would compare to the Aquila wound, and if it's long enough for two uses?
 
Thanks, I started installing the string after reading post #11. With no extra slack I got almost two rounds around the tuner post which I think should hold, though I would have preferred 4. It's an Aquila New Nylgut and I was pleasantly surprised that it seemed to stay in tune after only about half hour of playing and tightening up after each song. But I am not pleased with the grey colour that rubbed off on my strumming finger and I will see how long it will last. Does anyone have experience with the d'Addario NYL026w guitar string for use with a tenor uke? I am wondering how its sound would compare to the Aquila wound, and if it's long enough for two uses?

Sorry, I should have mentioned that you get around 2 turns and that that is enough to hold. That is basically what I have on my 3 ukes with wound strings. I haven't had any issues so far.
 
IMG_20190909_173356.jpg

I know this thread is a little old but for reference - Fremont low g, I was only able to get one loop through but has held up fine.

Since I contributed something, hopefully, I was wondering if anyone had experience or concerns with a wound string on a solid wood concert? I have a VTAB FS-C25 and I honestly don't know if there is a truss rod in the neck.
 
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I know this thread is a little old but for reference - Fremont low g, I was only able to get one loop through but has held up fine.

Since I contributed something, hopefully, I was wondering if anyone had experience or concerns with a wound string on a solid wood concert? I have a VTAB FS-C25 and I honestly don't know if there is a truss rod in the neck.

I have a wound string on my solid koa concert for some time. It doesnt have a truss rod and is doing fine.
 
The wound string still has a nylon or fluorocarbon core. So the tension is nowhere near a steel string wound. You're fine even with a wound G and a wound C on your custom.
 
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