Timbuck
Well-known member
I though about doing it this way after reading about something similar by David Hurd.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8fIy9XbAnA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8fIy9XbAnA
Video of experiment with a bad neck joint.
- Thread starter Timbuck
- Start date
greenscoe
Well-known member
That's an interesting video Ken. When its French polished, is it undetectable?
I know Mrs T finishes the box and neck separately. If the two were joined before finishing, it suggests that simply gluing together with Translucent Titebond and sawdust and careful clean up would also result in a 'perfect joint'. What do you reckon?
I know Mrs T finishes the box and neck separately. If the two were joined before finishing, it suggests that simply gluing together with Translucent Titebond and sawdust and careful clean up would also result in a 'perfect joint'. What do you reckon?
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Timbuck
Well-known member
Mrs T doesn’t like to finish with the neck joined and fret board fitted, it gives her problems..So I try and get the joint as good as possible first ..even then I find that after the FP is applied the joint still needs more flossing work.
But I think you are right about the translucent glue and sawdust it will give a good almost invisible joint...even after the FP.
I just did the same thing with a 22" six string that I was making for myself. I hack an arm bevel on it after the body was done, I had issues with the neck joint and just filled with wood dust and Titebond. Not a visually good looking joint but I spent enough time on the guitar already.
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Timbuck
Well-known member
Don’t misunderstand me, I don’t usually do my neck joints this way ...it’s just something I wanted to try out seeing as I had this translucent glue...I think it could be useful in some applications.
It is always good to have some tricks in your bag to pull out when you may need them.
I will be making cheap and dirty instruments to give away to underprivileged school kids and am trying different things to cut time and save money on them. I might just go to a Spanish Heel build though. I will be making myself a better practice guitar but I hacked one of my experiment school kids guitars for a bevel. I need it otherwise I can not practice playing guitar due to the edge of a guitar irritating my arm.
I will be making cheap and dirty instruments to give away to underprivileged school kids and am trying different things to cut time and save money on them. I might just go to a Spanish Heel build though. I will be making myself a better practice guitar but I hacked one of my experiment school kids guitars for a bevel. I need it otherwise I can not practice playing guitar due to the edge of a guitar irritating my arm.
Moore Bettah Ukuleles
Well-known member
I’ve never used “transparent” glue. But here’s a trick I learned from building furniture where you sometimes need to correct minor imperfections. When wood dust gets wet it usually turns it a darker color that the original wood, so if you can, try to make some dust from a lighter colored wood. And if you’ve got some plain old Elmer’s white household glue it works better than Titebond.
sequoia
Well-known member
Absolutely. Elmers glue, made from casein, a byproduct of milk, isn't very strong but it dries clear whereas Titebond dries yellow which darkens the wood dust even more. Strength of bonding is not an issue with cosmetic fixes so go with Elmers.
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Timbuck
Well-known member
I looked on eBay UK for Elmers glue ...there are loads of em
School glue, PVA glue, Clear glue, Slime glue, etc: ...as I have an almost full bottle of Titebond translucent, I’ll stick with ..it works ok for me whats Slime Glue ? :wtf:
mikeyb2
Well-known member
I'd be interested to know if there's a glue that when mixed with wood dust as a filler as Ken has done, that would take stain or dye once dried.
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Timbuck
Well-known member
I know you can mix dye or stain with Titebond while wet...but I think once cured it won’t absorb...maybe it depends on % of the mix...experiment needed again.
mikeyb2
Well-known member
I know you can mix dye or stain with Titebond while wet...but I think once cured it won’t absorb...maybe it depends on % of the mix...experiment needed again.
Now there's a thought, Ken. Cheers Mike.
