Anyone ever drill through a tie bar bridge to convert to a through-tie?

[3-1-1]

Curious if anyone has tried and encountered negative issues or side effects as a result? Should be as simple as just carefully drilling corresponding pin holes right above the top holes of the tie bar, and source some beads, right? What could go wrong?

No seriously I am asking…. Anyone have a reason to talk me out of it?

The would-be subject has a nice little flat area between the saddle slot and tie bar which should do nicely:

 

[3-1-1]

In anticipation of the “why,” my reasons are because I don’t really like stringing ukes with tie bars. My interlacing and tucking always looks sloppy. And maybe I am imagining it, but I really do think I get better resonance with through tie ukes. I’d like to see if I can get a little more out of this one.

 

[merlin666]

It really depends on what is below the bridge. You need a hardwood or carbon bridge plate to anchor the knots or beads, and of course if there is bracing below the bridge you are out of luck. I would consider it a major bridge downgrade.

 

[Bill Sheehan]

I did it with an Ohana soprano a few years ago, and it worked really well. I had been concerned about a slight "bridge lift" that had developed, so I decided to solve the issue that way. Just a point of clarification, 3-1-1... when you talk about drilling the "string-thru" holes "right above the top holes of the tie bar", you're referring to that "trench" area just "north" of the existing holes, is that correct?

 

[3-1-1]

I did it with an Ohana soprano a few years ago, and it worked really well. I had been concerned about a slight "bridge lift" that had developed, so I decided to solve the issue that way. Just a point of clarification, 3-1-1... when you talk about drilling the "string-thru" holes "right above the top holes of the tie bar", you're referring to that "trench" area just "north" of the existing holes, is that correct?

Exactly. Did your Ohana have a nice area like that to drill through?

 

[3-1-1]

It really depends on what is below the bridge. You need a hardwood or carbon bridge plate to anchor the knots or beads, and of course if there is bracing below the bridge you are out of luck. I would consider it a major bridge downgrade.

Good points. Maybe I should snake a camera down there and see what’s what first. I don’t believe there’s any bracing in that spot, and there is definitely a plate that I can feel with my fingers reaching down through the sound hole. But my fingers just barely reach it with the tips, and I can’t tell what that plate is made of. Feels like wood but getting eyes on would be beneficial.

 

[Ukecaster]

One time when I did it, the corners of front wall of the saddle slot (soundhole side) cracked after a couple of years, and the saddle became unstable, tilting badly, eventually unplayable. Gotta install a new bridge. Dunno if the increased string angle of the string-thru added more tension on the saddle? But, with a closed end saddle slot, you should not have that problem. With string-thru, I like the clean look, no tiebar string ends poking you, and less liklihood of a bridge lifting.

If you do it, I'd just drill the tiny holes right below where the existing string holes are. Also, if you wanted to slightly widen the string spacing at the bridge, now would be the time to do it, by spacing the holes a bit wider.

 

[KohanMike]

I did a while ago with the idea that it would prevent any possibility of the bridge pulling away. I drilled through the recessed curve. I don't know if I can say it helped the sound, but logically, it seems it would make some improvement.

 

[Bill Sheehan]

Exactly. Did your Ohana have a nice area like that to drill through?

Yes!

 

[BBegall]

How about just trying these?

 

[ploverwing]

How about just trying these?

I use those and like them.

 

[about2]

Ah yes I’ve done it. I have a Kamoa uke that I experiment on. I picked it up used at a local store. In its day it was a top of the line instrument. Solid spruce top, solid maple back and sides. But it was a little rough when I got it. As I didn’t pay a whole lot for it, and I have another tenor, it’s been a fun one to try things on.

So its slot bridge needed repair and seemed to be lifting a little. I drilled a hole and converted to a thru the body. It works great! At present I’ve only done the one string that needed repair. Problem solved.

I also drilled a large hole in its side to add a flight sound wave. That too worked well, however I don’t really care for the sound wave. Not my cup of tea.

 

[70sSanO]

My interlacing and tucking always looks sloppy.

“Interlacing and tuck” got me to Google this and I found out I have been stringing tie bar guitar and ukulele bridges wrong for 50 years.

I’ve seen the tucking of the tail under the next corresponding string, but I’ve never done that, even with guitars. I just loop 2 or 3 times and trim the tails off when I’m done.

I guess the tucking is supposed to keep the strings from slipping, but I’ve never had one come loose. I always thought the tucking, especially all 4 strings going completely across was for aesthetics.

John

 

[70sSanO]

Since there is a bridge plate, if you decide to drill, you might want to take some precaution so you don’t splinter the bridge plate wood when the drill comes through.

Obviously it is not possible to clamp a piece of wood against the bridge plate. Maybe tape would help. But having a clean exit hole is what you want.

And I’d use beads instead of just a knot.

John