Broken saddle

0live

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Hi all, first time posting (not counting intro)!

I was making some minor changes to my Enya Nova U Pro Tenor and accidentally broke my saddle trying to remove it. The plastic saddle was incredibly frail since it broke as I pulled it out with some tweezers (with slight pressure to just grasp) since it was a little stuck for some reason.

I did some searching and I’m having a hard time since I’m new to the hobby and the uke DIY how/ where can I buy a replacement saddle for it? I live in a U.S. territory so it would have to be an online retailer. Preferably a U.S. online retailer since we use USPS. I just super glued it to try to salvage it for now but not holding my breath in that lol.

(FYI if anyone was interested what I did to it, I was changing the stock gold tuners and buttons to Grover open back silver tuners and the buttons from gold to silver and was trying to remove the saddle to lower the action since it was at 6mm at the 12th fret. )
 
That should not happen. If Enya has warranty then contact them and ask for replacement. However, modifications like that also tend to void warranties.
 
That should not happen. If Enya has warranty then contact them and ask for replacement. However, modifications like that also tend to void warranties
That should not happen. If Enya has warranty then contact them and ask for replacement. However, modifications like that also tend to void warranties.
I reached out to them and I’m currently waiting for a reply 🤞
 
Many physical music shops have a box of blank saddles and nuts available.

If Enya cannot or wont replace the saddle, arrange to buy a blank and carve/file it to suit your ukulele. If you are not confident of
Ukes are non existent where I live. But I imagine a guitar or cuatro luthier might be able to make a duplicate with the old one.
 
Welcome again, Olive!
I’ve found bone, Tusq, Corian and ebony uke saddles (and saddle & nut combos) through Walmart.com for under $15.00 USD including shipping. Quality was as expected and length was correct per posted specs.
 
6mm string height at 12 sounds like a warranty issue. That's high even for a full scale guitar
 
6mm string height at 12 sounds like a warranty issue. That's high even for a full scale guitar
Don't remember exactly. but my Enya Nova U Pro Tenor was between 2.5 and 3.
 
6mm string height at 12 sounds like a warranty issue. That's high even for a full scale guitar
For the sake of OP perspective:
Action on my DIY kit uke was originally 5mm. I’ve gotten it down to 4mm by sanding nearly 2mm off the base of the bison bone saddle but will have to change out the bridge to get it any lower because the molded plastic bridge itself is so tall.

In comparison, action on the Famous FU120-P I’m currently repairing is a wonderfully low 2mm. Though volume is understandably lacking, there is no buzzing.
 
Generally you take 2x off the saddle to lower the strings at the 12th fret. Lowering 3mm at the 12th means 6mm off the saddle. That is removing almost 1/4” which is a lot.

I use the word generally, because nut and saddle adjustments work together. If the strings are too high at the nut you’ll need to make adjustments there too. But if they are not, a significant lowering at the saddle can impact string height at the first few frets, but to a lesser degree.

I find it a bit of a cat and mouse in not cutting the nut slots too low.

John
 
Welcome again, Olive!
I’ve found bone, Tusq, Corian and ebony uke saddles (and saddle & nut combos) through Walmart.com for under $15.00 USD including shipping. Quality was as expected and length was correct per posted specs.
Thanks for the suggestion 😊 I checked them out but it looks like they don’t have any in stock currently
 
6mm string height at 12 sounds like a warranty issue. That's high even for a full scale guitar
I bought it about 7 months ago and changed the tuners and the buttons recently which might void the warranty as I understand.
 
For the sake of OP perspective:
Action on my DIY kit uke was originally 5mm. I’ve gotten it down to 4mm by sanding nearly 2mm off the base of the bison bone saddle but will have to change out the bridge to get it any lower because the molded plastic bridge itself is so tall.
Generally you take 2x off the saddle to lower the strings at the 12th fret. Lowering 3mm at the 12th means 6mm off the saddle. That is removing almost 1/4” which is a lot.

I use the word generally, because nut and saddle adjustments work together. If the strings are too high at the nut you’ll need to make adjustments there too. But if they are not, a significant lowering at the saddle can impact string height at the first few frets, but to a lesser degree.

I find it a bit of a cat and mouse in not cutting the nut slots too low.

John
At the nut luckily the action is at 2.5 which I find favorable. I’m hesitant to lower or touch it since it’s molded into the body.
 
At the nut luckily the action is at 2.5 which I find favorable. I’m hesitant to lower or touch it since it’s molded into the body.
2.5mm at the nut is, IMHO, far too high, and is apparently a large part of the high action on your Enya. I recommend that you correct that by deepening the nut slots with the half-round from an inexpensive set of 5 jeweler’s needle files (under $10.00 from Harbor Freight). It’s a tedious process but just pop off the nut and take your time, being careful to deepen each slot without unintentionally broadening it.
 
I agree that the nut is too high. Both my Nova U Soprano and Concert are spot on. The nut is integral on a Nova U. The work will have to be done all on the ukulele.
Follow Oldscruggsfan's instructions on the level of care taken while working on the nut.

Cheers,

Steve
 
@Spicysteve - What’s the action measurement at the nut on your Nova U concert? My SWAG for the OP’s tenor is 1.5mm max at the nut, with 1mm being preferable.
 
2.5mm at the nut is, IMHO, far too high, and is apparently a large part of the high action on your Enya. I recommend that you correct that by deepening the nut slots with the half-round from an inexpensive set of 5 jeweler’s needle files (under $10.00 from Harbor Freight). It’s a tedious process but just pop off the nut and take your time, being careful to deepen each slot without unintentionally broadening it.
That’s great advice. Since the nut is basically a part of the body on this uke, I’m afraid of messing it up since I get no redo. Any tips on dos and do nots?
 
That’s great advice. Since the nut is basically a part of the body on this uke, I’m afraid of messing it up since I get no redo. Any tips on dos and do nots?
Blue Painter’s tape is your best friend. Don’t hesitate to use 3-4 layers of tape on each side of the nut to protect the fingerboard and headstock while you’re using the needle file. I always buy the widest rolls I can find.
 
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