Building a soprano

Sides fit into the form great. Shaping the neck and heel blocks next.View attachment 169244
Something to consider at this stage: You will need to pay attention to the way the sides join, of course, but at the neck end it is not as important, aesthetically, because it will be totally out of sight once the uke is fully assembled.

The other end will require particular care because it will always be very visible.
 
Could you describe your side bending procedure in more detail? Thx.
I wet the wood and used a bending iron and bent them by hand. Then I clamp them in a form overnight to help the new shape set as the wood dries from me wetting it. I bent two sets of sides and by the 4th side i was getting the hang of it and using much less water. The wood was holding its shape on its own much better.

Something to consider at this stage: You will need to pay attention to the way the sides join, of course, but at the neck end it is not as important, aesthetically, because it will be totally out of sight once the uke is fully assembled.

The other end will require particular care because it will always be very visible.
Yes, I wasn't as precise as I would have liked. There is a small gap at the lower bout joint. I plan on installing binding, so now I will also include a small end graft as well to make sure it comes out looking good. I'm purposefully making 2 ukuleles at once. I plan to use the same one for my first attempt at every procedure. Hopefully, I learn from the mistakes I made and improve on the second one.
 
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Bodies fully prepped for the top and back. I sanded a 15 ft. radius onto the back. Next step is to properly thickness the top and backs, cut sound holes and do rosettes.

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Low tech 3D printed solution to cut the sound hole and rosette channel. I made an adjustable version but I wasn’t able to achieve a level of accuracy I was happy with. I started as a single unit but modified to 3 individual ones so I don’t have to reset the blade as much. This will cut the sound hole and the inner and outer circumference of a rosette channel sized to fit the perfling material im using. You can see some tests I’ve done off to the side.60F258A0-205B-4655-84CA-F29EF71A44D4.jpeg
 
Low tech 3D printed solution to cut the sound hole and rosette channel. I made an adjustable version but I wasn’t able to achieve a level of accuracy I was happy with. I started as a single unit but modified to 3 individual ones so I don’t have to reset the blade as much. This will cut the sound hole and the inner and outer circumference of a rosette channel sized to fit the perfling material im using. You can see some tests I’ve done off to the side.View attachment 171070
I use a couple of boring heads in my drill press to cut sound holes and rosette channels they can be adjusted to suit whatever diameter you require. New ones are expensive but low cost S/H ones can be found on eBay like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23552542...dg==|tkp:Bk9SR7iG64TeYw&LH_ItemCondition=3000
 
Thanks for sharing. I’ve done a few practice runs using my 3d printed tools and they will do the trick for now. I can already tell it’s not the way I’d want to do this long term. Chiseling out the waste of the rosette channel is tedious and risky. Your suggestion might be the way to go in the future.

Do you have a boring bar that only cuts a very thin channel for the rosette? Maybe I’m not understanding how you achieve a very narrow cut like that. Im aiming for about 1.5mm wide for the rosette channel.
 
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Thanks for sharing. I’ve done a few practice runs using my 3d printed tools and they will do the trick for now. I can already tell it’s not the way I’d want to do this long term. Chiseling out the waste of the rosette channel is tedious and risky. Your suggestion might be the way to go in the future.

Do you have a boring bar that only cuts a very thin channel for the rosette? Maybe I’m not understanding how you achieve a very narrow cut like that. Im aiming for about 1.5mm wide for the rosette channel.
This is a video I made some time back...I suggest you make the cutters out of old broken drill shanks , like a 1.5 mm drill should make a nice cutter ground down like a lathe parting tool.
 
my 3D printed rosette and sound hole cutter has evolved. It’s now adjustable and uses a more durable blade ground from an old saw blade. I ground a sharp cutting end and on the other end I can flip it and use it like a router plane to route out about 1.5mm of material at a time. I’ve also done probably 10+ test runs on a simple black/white/black rosette and I’m finally happy with the results. I’ll probably seal the end grain with shellac before gluing it in to prevent the small amount of color bleed from the black purfling material.


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