Going back from planetary tuners?

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A long time ago, I replaced the friction pegs on a Kamoa 500P Soprano Pineapple Uke with Gotoh planetary tuners. Fast forward 10 years, and I realize that I don't play the uke very much because the headstock is quite heavy. The uke balances around the 10th fret. I'd like to fix that.

Could I restore the balance by reverting back to friction pegs? I assume the planetary tuners created the problem with their weight, but I can't find tuner weights listed anywhere to confirm this. I imagine it will be harder to reinstall friction pegs that it was to install the Gotohs because I enlarged the holes in the headstock to fit them. So I'm wondering what I can expect to accomplish balance-wise if I do.

On a related note, can anyone recommend a high quality, smooth friction tuner that would be noticeably lighter than the planetary tuners? Thanks.
 
I replaced the gotohs on my Martin Tenor with Grover 6 series. They are smooth and work fantastically. For some reason, I just prefer friction tuners. I just put two sets on the kitchen scale and came up with 43 grams for the Grover 6B set and 58 grams for the Gotoh planetary tuners. Not such a great difference...half an ounce or so. The Grovers covered the enlarged holes I reamed for the Gotohs just barely, but you'd never notice.
 
I’m wishing the OP good luck with this.

As a general comment I think that simple friction tuners are ideal for a uke and that some geared tuners (some are much worse than others) are ridiculously heavy. Friction tuners can, I’ll admit, be a bit stiff and fiddly to use. However, a simple peg turner allows easy tuning and folk obsess about fine tuning to some electronic read-out rather than (the less critical measure of) what the ears easily notice.
 
Unexpectedly, I was able to find the original tuners that I took off the Kamoa in an old box. I weighed them at the post office, and the set is 2.6 oz (~74 g)! So the Gotoh's don't seem to be the problem.

Now that I know that this isn't as simple as undoing something I did, I might sit and have a think before I proceed. Thank you for the recommendation about the Grover 6's.
 
Consider using a strap. I know it's a bit controversial to put one on a soprano, but it will negate the head dive from a head heavy uke.

Just install a strap pin on the butt. (Make sure there's a brace there inside.) And use a shoelace to tie the other end of the strap to the headstock.
 
Regardless of weight / balance, now that I’ve experienced the high quality KoAloha friction tuners I retrofitted to Yowling Tom and those by installed by Kiwaya on the Famous FU120-P, I much prefer them.
I’m admittedly somewhat of a Luddite but I don’t see how it’s an improvement to turn the button multiple revolutions in order to achieve the same mechanical benchmark, particularly with nylon or FC strings.
 
Light weight tuners make the biggest difference on Pre WWII sopranos. They have thinner headstocks and thin, to no fretboards.
I don't have a scale but to my approximate guesses the lightest are wooden pegs, A violin luthier local set up pegs that work as good if not better than metal friction ones. Straps on a soprano should not be needed as they can be held in the crook of the right elbow putting the strumming or picking fingers at the preferred body neck junction.
 
I didn't do the math, but how about you remove one tuning machine and heft the uke to find it's new balance point with the reduced weight.
 
I believe that PegHed planetary tuners are lighter than the Gotoh tuners. I do not know if you'd have to modify the hole s or not. The PegHeds have left and right-handed threads.

PegHeds have the friction aspect in that you pull the tuner key out to disengage the gears and do your rough tuning, push it in and do your fine tuning with a friction feeling.
 
I believe that PegHed planetary tuners are lighter than the Gotoh tuners. I do not know if you'd have to modify the hole s or not. The PegHeds have left and right-handed threads.

PegHeds have the friction aspect in that you pull the tuner key out to disengage the gears and do your rough tuning, push it in and do your fine tuning with a friction feeling.

My first thought when I saw the thread.
I tried Googling it. It seems they need a whole tapered with a violin reamer, which has another angle than a guitar reamer.
I read something about a 7mm diameter. Not sure if it applies to the ukulele version or where on the taper it is measured. The hole for Gotoh is about 10 mm at the wide side. So there is a chance the holes are too big.

Anyway, I never installed any, just enjoy them on my MyaMoe and my Fluke.

Edit:
Just checked on my MyaMoe
Definitely needs a smaller hole that Gotohs.
 
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