Just got the Aquila Flat Spirals! A request for a U-Bass photo

[groan]

Can I ask someone who successfully installed these to attach a photo of your head-stock of a 21' scale Uke?
I am requesting this because my set went on fine until I got to the E string. The threaded reinforced part of the string was quite far up on the strings. When I tried to wind them on the bare strings started around the knob and at that point, met with catastrophic failure.
I emailed @mimmo (help email address), and my seller, Strings and beyond for help.
I'm wondering if they are all like this or if I got a E string for the wrong scale. I'd like to see the threaded part on YOUR uke.

 

[mimmo]

Mimmo is there...
that slot acted like a shear cutting the string core. At present we have sold many sets without this kind of issue. However I will take care about you, Groan. The first thing to do is that you mail to us: aquila@aquilacorde. com writing in the mail: 'Mimmo told me to mail you... etc etc'.
The replace is ok but, if you agree, I would like to have a tester like you: I would like to send you two different versions of the E strings in order to see what happens.
Mimmo

 

[Wiggy]

Can I ask someone who successfully installed these to attach a photo of your head-stock of a 21' scale Uke?
I am requesting this because my set went on fine until I got to the E string. The threaded reinforced part of the string was quite far up on the strings. When I tried to wind them on the bare strings started around the knob and at that point, met with catastrophic failure.
I emailed @mimmo (help email address), and my seller, Strings and beyond for help.
I'm wondering if they are all like this or if I got a E string for the wrong scale. I'd like to see the threaded part on YOUR uke.

View attachment 160564

Definitely follow Mimmo's advice.

- - -

Perhaps you could smooth the cutting edge of the tuner's spool so the string will wrap around rather than be bent at a sharp angle that would cause a cut. It would not take much, just enough so it doesn't feel sharp.

I do something similar on the fret-facing side of nut slots (it might be called ramp-off or break angle?) to eliminate breakage at the nut of very thin .016" strings.

 

[WebParrot (s2)]

These strings are the 23" scale installed on a 23.5" scale Kala fretless UBass.
Their fretless bass comes with round wound kala branded strings (likely Galli) which -as a result- have a nut that is cut for thinner strings. (As opposed to the fatter poly bands that were likely on your bass.) See yellow arrow @ nut.

(Theorizing further): From my experience, (with other wound strings), that kind of separation can also happen when re-installing, or rewinding a second or third time. For example, I discovered that the initial stringing wasn't "winding downward" on the post; I would loosen, then try to reposition the string on the post. The original "mistake" stretched the winding, leaving it loose over the core. Going a second time resulted in the wound section separating.

I'm not suggesting that happened, just sharing : -) for future reference. Take you time and slowly guide the string on the post to it's proper position. (Edit added During the initial installation, as you start to wind, don't drop the string into the nut slot until some tension has built. Once you have some noticeable tension, then pop the string into the nut slot. This keep you from dragging the string through the slot unnecessarily; especially important if the slot isn't angled toward the wind-up side of the post.

In addition.... (See red arrows). If there is a hole in the center of the post, try starting the string in the hole rather then trying to wrap the excess (thread wound) portion. I shorten the (black) portion by clipping off excess, then sealing the end with CA glue to prevent unraveling. This will save having an excess amount on the post, over which you will be winding the flat strings.

 

[groan]

Mimmo is there...
that slot acted like a shear cutting the string core. At present we have sold many sets without this kind of issue. However I will take care about you, Groan. The first thing to do is that you mail to us: aquila@aquilacorde. com writing in the mail: 'Mimmo told me to mail you... etc etc'.
The replace is ok but, if you agree, I would like to have a tester like you: I would like to send you two different versions of the E strings in order to see what happens.
Mimmo

Thank you @mimmo .
I had already emailed but I just followed up with another email to link to your comment. I appreciate your help with this! I would be honored to help with the testing of the 2 strings.

I didn't get the impression of it acting like a knife. The picture you see is after I turned it a couple more times and it began to wrap around the post. The un-sprung string happened along the flat part of the string before it started wrapping around the post. Either way, I'll take your suggestions on how to string this and apply them when they arrive.

@WebParrot (s2)
Thank youf the suggestions! I watched a few reviews and some people didn't have any problem using the stock nut so I was going to try that before I have to spend $50 on a new one.
And thank you for the stringing suggestions. When I'm winding I do take special care to make sure the strings are going down the post. I don't like the overlap. I'll use that when I restring! I regret the way I did it on the other strings. I followed a guide I found online and ended up trimming them too short. I may need a new full set after I get the E string sorted.

This is the string off the post. I had stretched it a bit after I took it off but you can see the separation occurred after the wrapped part. There was probably 3 flats next to the wrapped part where it had not unraveled when I took it off.



Again, Thank you all for your suggestions. I've never had flats on a uke-bass so this was a new experience for this new player.

 

[mimmo]

Ciao Groan, have you received the replace?
Mimmo

 

[WebParrot (s2)]

[ (Edit added to my #4 post:) During the initial installation, as you start to wind, don't drop the string into the nut slot until some tension has built. Once you have some noticeable tension, then pop the string into the nut slot. This keep you from dragging the string through the slot unnecessarily; especially important if the slot isn't angled toward the wind-up side of the post. ]

 

[Patty]

[ (Edit added to my #4 post:) During the initial installation, as you start to wind, don't drop the string into the nut slot until some tension has built. Once you have some noticeable tension, then pop the string into the nut slot. This keep you from dragging the string through the slot unnecessarily; especially important if the slot isn't angled toward the wind-up side of the post. ]

Good idea for all of us, not just bass players. Thanks!

 

[groan]

Ciao Groan, have you received the replace?
Mimmo

Hi @mimmo. Thanks for reaching out. I have not yet received them but I'll be sure to post here when I do and I'll do a little recording of my install, just in case.

[ (Edit added to my #4 post:) During the initial installation, as you start to wind, don't drop the string into the nut slot until some tension has built. Once you have some noticeable tension, then pop the string into the nut slot. This keep you from dragging the string through the slot unnecessarily; especially important if the slot isn't angled toward the wind-up side of the post. ]

Thanks @WebParrot (s2)
I'm pretty sure I do this anyway, but I'll be sure to pay close attention and try this practice when I get the replacement string.

 

[mimmo]

Ciao Groan, the replacement will be sent you right today. We got your phone number recently (it is for the mail service...).
Mimmo

 

[groan]

@mimmo I received the string just now.
I'll try installing it later today and let you know of any issues.
I'll keep all the tips in this thread in mind so thank you all for that help.

 

[groan]

String went on without any issues. Thanks to all for the guidance.
I do feel I cut the other strings too short. I'd followed a guide but I guess it was faulty, or I was faulty. You can see on the G string it's sitting much higher as it didn't get as many rotations.
If I end up really liking this I'll need to get a new setup as the strings are high at the bridge end and I may just have to buy a new set to fix my mistake of cutting them too short.
Thanks again!

 

[WebParrot (s2)]

I don't know... looks pretty good to me : -) First, I think having a minimal wrap isn't necessarily 'bad,' so long as there's sufficient to keep wrapped! I've found -with many strings- it's hard to judge the amount needed until after strings have stretched. For example, with regular gCEA tunings the tenor strings end up with many more windings after a week of re-tunings. One difficulty with wound strings is judging just how much stretch will occur. With my sets of Aquilas the 'tenor' D & G strings ended up with twice the windings (even though they were cut with the same excess-beyond-the-peg).

Concerning me most with these strings, is the amount of "unprotected," (by fabric/adhesive) that ends up on the posts. In my pic (post #4) you'll notice that the unprotected amount of " E " string comes to the start of the post. In yours, the " E " string wraps 2/3rds. It's "almost" as though the string was for the wrong scale. My assumption is that only the 'protected' cloth wound portion should be on the posts.

That brings the question of whether you chose, or received the strings for the correct scale length. Looking at the A, D, G strings it seems so. Although I might argue the G string seems the correct length (based on the remaining protected part).

I'm no expert, only an observer. I've looked at bass strings and wound strings on many headstocks and most have only the protected sections on the posts.

Perhaps others have more experience or observations to share.

 

[groan]

That was my concern in my first post. All the other strings wrapped reinforced area started much lower on the strings. They are all 23" scale.

 

[mimmo]

Ciao Groan... what about the sound?
Mimmo

 

[groan]

Ciao Groan... what about the sound?
Mimmo

Sound so nice! Such a warm sound.
I do have a question about action. Given the uke was made for the thicker strings, what sort of height should I have for these.
I'd need a luthier to lower something, or adjust the truss rod but right now they are quite high.

 

[Wiggy]

My gut feeling is, just play it for a while as the E-string settles in. You can see the curve where it enters (top view) and exits (side view) the nut. It should conform to a more visible angle over time. That may also be seen where it goes over the bridge.

This is probably bad advice (especially at the nut as the string still needs to slide), but I would "help" it form the angles by pressing with my thumb. That's my story... A side picture where the string goes over the bridge might show if that is necessary.

 

[Futurethink]

Bass strings vibrate much more widely than regular ukulele strings, so standards for action are different, I assume you are taking that into consideration.

 

[groan]

@Wiggy Thanks for the suggestions. I'll let it sit and see how it progresses after a few re-tunes. The angle over the bridge is a bit of a concern for me as I note the wound string separating ever so slightly due to the angle. I'm hesitant to push down on it. I'll let it happen naturally.
I'll post a pic in a bit. I seem to have misplaced my device.
EDIT: added pic

@Futurethink Thank you, too! I had not thought of that and that makes a whole lot of sense.

 

[Wiggy]

@Wiggy Thanks for the suggestions. I'll let it sit and see how it progresses after a few re-tunes. The angle over the bridge is a bit of a concern for me as I note the wound string separating ever so slightly due to the angle. I'm hesitant to push down on it. I'll let it happen naturally.
I'll post a pic in a bit. I seem to have misplaced my device.
EDIT: added pic

@Futurethink Thank you, too! I had not thought of that and that makes a whole lot of sense.

Make sure the "last rib" has a chance to either sit on the saddle or go over. Just watch what it wants to do. It all depends on the curve it encounters and whether it is "hung up" on the peak. You may have to loosen it and lift it up on the saddle. It'll go, or not, from there.