New project

346060146_289114800138714_4213328925363710575_n.jpg mold Make your veneer press with a 3mm gap and use two 0.5mm strips of aluminium to stop them sticking to the form. It was a real game-changer for me. You could pre-bend the thick veneers in your heat bender then laminate. I rough out the shape on my bending iron. You can also make solid linings by the same method.
 
Now the making of the "solera " as started ...and I've got to admit that it is a lot more accurate than the ones I've made myself before CNC came into use.
Note the little tabs spaced out along the cutout lines , these stop the work piece breaking loose during machining and causing damage.


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do you have a photo of the end of your jig near the nut?
Yes but there is nothing to see :) I use a wedge gauge to measure the exact hight of the required bridge allowing 1.5 mm for the saddle.

Clearance required at 12th fret X 2 + fretboard thickness + fret hight minus saddle hight = bridge thickness ...this is how it should work out...but it's wood and it can vary ..so I use the wedge gauge to measure the exact thickness.
 
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thanks! i have considered building a uke and am about to build a classical. i am in the midst of building two steel strings. it appears the set up for a uke is similar to that of a classical in which the neck is set in a manner that it is offset up to 3-4mm at the bridge.
 
btw, i would guess that is bc there is very little string tension that would result in some relief in the neck like steel strings would cause.
 
Are those threaded inserts that the clamps would attach to? Are they on both sides so you can clamp and glue the front and the back? Also, can you explain the purpose of the recessed areas around the upper bout on the back and around the whole front?
 
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Are those threaded inserts that the clamps would attach to? Are they on both sides so you can clamp and glue the front and the back? Also, can you explain the purpose of the recessed areas around the upper bout on the back and around the whole front?
The recess at the front is to locate the sound board in position and also to allow for glue squeeze out and the one on the upper bout of the back is because the uke is tapered and the upper bout (neck end) wouldn't protrude enough for the clamps to work....The inserts are on both sides.
 
Testing out the new bender and the new CNC made jigs....Trial run.

pre-heating.





Wetted sides in foil envelope with 4.5 inch setting mark.



Positioned in bender with setting mark in line with bender upright post.





Now clamped and heating in progress... Note the tanning colour in the vapour as the steam escapes.
 
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Now out of the bender with no cracking or wrinkles , but with a little spring back but not enough to cause problems. :)


Next into the mould/jig for marking out for end trimming.


marking out trim line by rotating pencil point in the groove.

Next mark the trim lines with a set square.


Now trimmed on bandsaw .... Next Operation is fitting the End Blocks....More to follow.
 
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What is the heat source for the side bender? I don’t see heat blankets.
It's a 500 Watt Halogen flood light ...very cheap to buy at approx: £5 compared to heat blanket prices and I've always used them in my benders ... With good results....
 
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My 2 cents for what I like about modern uke builds
1. Side sound port
2. String through bridges and the Martin style bridge has an epidemic of the a string slot coming apart. I have seen this in vintage Martin, modern martins and even fluke plastic bridges.
3. Zero fret
4. Cantilever fretboard. Rick Turner and Ono ukes use them and for smaller body ukuleles I feel this will bridge the tone gap between 12 fret fretboard vs 17 fret ones.

Make a video on how to make a cantilevered fingerboard, There isn't a good one available.
 
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