New project

[Pete Howlett]

mold Make your veneer press with a 3mm gap and use two 0.5mm strips of aluminium to stop them sticking to the form. It was a real game-changer for me. You could pre-bend the thick veneers in your heat bender then laminate. I rough out the shape on my bending iron. You can also make solid linings by the same method.

 

[Timbuck]

All the main parts are now cut out and ready for assembly and they all fit together like they should.



IMG[url=https://flic.kr/p/2pfK9wk]IMG_6210 by Ken Timms, on Flickr_6209[/URL] by Ken Timms,

 

[Timbuck]

Now the making of the "solera " as started ...and I've got to admit that it is a lot more accurate than the ones I've made myself before CNC came into use.
Note the little tabs spaced out along the cutout lines , these stop the work piece breaking loose during machining and causing damage.
IMG_6212 by Ken Timms,

.

 

[pcf]

Setting the bridge hight... Allowing for 3mm clearance at the 12th and 1.5mm at the saddle.

IMG_6135 by Ken Timms,

do you have a photo of the end of your jig near the nut?

 

[Timbuck]

do you have a photo of the end of your jig near the nut?

Yes but there is nothing to see I use a wedge gauge to measure the exact hight of the required bridge allowing 1.5 mm for the saddle.

Clearance required at 12th fret X 2 + fretboard thickness + fret hight minus saddle hight = bridge thickness ...this is how it should work out...but it's wood and it can vary ..so I use the wedge gauge to measure the exact thickness.
62417796-F712-412E-B35C-CA89F4FC49EB by Ken Timms,

 

[pcf]

thanks! i have considered building a uke and am about to build a classical. i am in the midst of building two steel strings. it appears the set up for a uke is similar to that of a classical in which the neck is set in a manner that it is offset up to 3-4mm at the bridge.

 

[pcf]

btw, i would guess that is bc there is very little string tension that would result in some relief in the neck like steel strings would cause.

 

[Timbuck]

New side bender coming along nicely
IMG_6238 by Ken Timms,

 

[Timbuck]

Mould / Solera ... almost completed, waiting for the clamping cauls to be made.

IMG_6240 by Ken Timms,

 

[Smallchewbacca]

Are those threaded inserts that the clamps would attach to? Are they on both sides so you can clamp and glue the front and the back? Also, can you explain the purpose of the recessed areas around the upper bout on the back and around the whole front?

 

[Timbuck]

Are those threaded inserts that the clamps would attach to? Are they on both sides so you can clamp and glue the front and the back? Also, can you explain the purpose of the recessed areas around the upper bout on the back and around the whole front?

The recess at the front is to locate the sound board in position and also to allow for glue squeeze out and the one on the upper bout of the back is because the uke is tapered and the upper bout (neck end) wouldn't protrude enough for the clamps to work....The inserts are on both sides.