Why didn't I think of this before.

Timbuck

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Using the bandsaw mitre gauge as an end stop when slicing veneers .
 
Looking at it now, I have the same question. Why didn't you think of this before? You're much smarter than me, you should have thought of that years ago.
 
It is important that the workpiece has a good 90 degree angle against the fence and table before starting to re-saw . ... and the table is waxed for a smooth operation. ... there are lots of other ways to do this I understand ( and I've tried most of e'm ) but! this one does work ok. :)
 
Every time I see pictures of resawing wood and people reaching for a push stick and trying to run the last bit of wood through the blade I cringe. One of the best things I have done is to make a sliding fence that runs against the real fence. It has an end block with a replaceable back-stop piece since the blade runs into it a bit as it exits the piece being cut. You never have to reach for a push stick, you never have to rearrange your hands in the middle of a cut, and your fingers are well out of reach of the blade at all times.

I cut a lot of wood from billets from tress I have cut with a chain saw. The other big advantage of this sliding fence is that the fence-side of the wood need not be jointed. One just holds the block against the sliding fence, and since the fence is sliding, not the wood, one cuts a very straight line. Also eliminates the need to re-joint the fence side (and waste wood) between cuts when cutting veneers on the 'inside' of the block. I have cut a lot of veneer wood with this setup and it is the best thing I have thought up, both from a functionality and more importantly safety standpoint.
 

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