Nova U Mini modification - Silent Practice Uke

[JukeManJole]

I have an extra Nova U Mini. Short story is I had a problem with the one I bought. Enya sent me a new one, told me to keep the old and told me how I might fix the issue with the old one. Now I have two Nova U Minis. Pretty good customer support.

I am trying to think of a way to turn it into a silent practice uke, like the risa stick, only cheaper. Here is my dumb idea:

1. Get a stick-on piezo pickup like this: https://www.knapickups.com/en/universal/up-2-pickup-kna
2. Buy a pre-amp like this: https://www.sweetwater.com/c979--Acoustic_FX?highlight=ADI21
3. Plug headphones into pre-amp and listen (or run into old iPhone's headphone jack through garageband for effects and then listen on lightening headphones)
4. Fill inside of Nova u mini with expanding foam to make it quiet (this may be the dumbest part of the idea).

Would this work? Is there a better way for under $100?

 

[chris667]

My guess is it would get a bit quieter, but not Risa stick quiet.

 

[Neil_O]

I have an extra Nova U Mini. Short story is I had a problem with the one I bought. Enya sent me a new one, told me to keep the old and told me how I might fix the issue with the old one. Now I have two Nova U Minis. Pretty good customer support.

I am trying to think of a way to turn it into a silent practice uke, like the risa stick, only cheaper. Here is my dumb idea:

1. Get a stick-on piezo pickup like this: https://www.knapickups.com/en/universal/up-2-pickup-kna
2. Buy a pre-amp like this: https://www.sweetwater.com/c979--Acoustic_FX?highlight=ADI21
3. Plug headphones into pre-amp and listen (or run into old iPhone's headphone jack through garageband for effects and then listen on lightening headphones)
4. Fill inside of Nova u mini with expanding foam to make it quiet (this may be the dumbest part of the idea).

Would this work? Is there a better way for under $100?

Just stuff the uke with something removable to start. Then you can get a ear on the volume and timbre before you do anything kooky! I put a sticker on the soundhole of a cheapie, and most of the sound was gone!

 

[JukeManJole]

Just stuff the uke with something removable to start. Then you can get an ear on the volume and timbre before you do anything kooky! I put a sticker on the soundhole of a cheapie, and most of the sound was gone!

I tried taping some paper, but maybe that was too thin? The sound “hole” on the nova u mini is three tiny slits right next to each other, so it would be hard to stuff something in and remove it. Maybe I’ll take a drill to it and just make it one big sound hole and then stuff it full of socks to see how it works. Thanks for the reply….. got me thinking.

 

[merlin666]

I have two of these as well because they sent wrong colour. They are on borderline to toy and even if I dig in don't produce much sound. Maybe fill with that expandable construction foam to turn into solid body.

 

[JukeManJole]

I have two of these as well because they sent wrong colour. They are on borderline to toy and even if I dig in don't produce much sound. Maybe fill with that expandable construction foam to turn into solid body.

That foam is what I was thinking. Worth a shot I guess…..

They do sound plasticy for sure. I was really disappointed initially because some reputable YouTube reviewers said they were great, and I did not like the sound at first. Now, I’ve gotten used to it. Only ukes I have and I’ve played the crap out of them. I am ready for something new though ha.

 

[Poul Hansen]

Be aware that expanding foam is difficult to control and is quite strong when expanding. Just make a layer at a time, don't fill all at once.

 

[rainbow21]

Try this and see if it works for you…

Take a microfiber cloth and drape it over the bridge and the first few inches of the strings. It will be softer without sustain. Move it higher (toward nut) to decrease volume more and adjust to taste.

An unwashed sock may also work.

 

[ampeep]

Maybe get a piece of foam & wedge in under the strings right next to the bridge? Should cut down the volume though you won't have any sustain.

Used this on my electric bass when trying to get a James Jamerson (vintage Motown) sound.

 

[scarver]

I have two of these as well because they sent wrong colour. They are on borderline to toy and even if I dig in don't produce much sound. Maybe fill with that expandable construction foam to turn into sol

That foam is what I was thinking. Worth a shot I guess…..

They do sound plasticy for sure. I was really disappointed initially because some reputable YouTube reviewers said they were great, and I did not like the sound at first. Now, I’ve gotten used to it. Only ukes I have and I’ve played the crap out of them. I am ready for something new though ha.

Agreed that they do sound like plastic with the stock strings, but I ended up putting some Worth browns on one, and by George, it sounds pretty good. It shouldn't work that way but it does.

 

[JukeManJole]

Agreed that they do sound like plastic with the stock strings, but I ended up putting some Worth browns on one, and by George, it sounds pretty good. It shouldn't work that way but it does.

Might give these a try after I wear out my next set. You do high g or low G?

 

[UkeStuff]

Agreed that they do sound like plastic with the stock strings, but I ended up putting some Worth browns on one, and by George, it sounds pretty good. It shouldn't work that way but it does.

Note: I am going to leave this here as I had posted it-my memory went askew. I was thinking of reds…see my follow up post a few below this one

There have been some reported cases of Worth Browns eating away at the plastic frets on these and other plastic/polycarbonate ukuleles. Just be cautious. I always suggest things like clear fluorocarbon and Nylgut.

 

[JukeManJole]

Interesting. I’ve read that too. Didn’t realize the Browns weren’t pure fluorocarbon, though it makes sense now that I think about it. I wonder what they have in them that would wear down the frets?

 

[scarver]

Might give these a try after I wear out my next set. You do high g or low G?

high g. It was a set I took off another uke.

 

[scarver]

Interesting. I’ve read that too. Didn’t realize the Browns weren’t pure fluorocarbon, though it makes sense now that I think about it. I wonder what they have in them that would wear down the frets?

From the Ukulele Site description of Worth Browns

Worth Premium 100% Fluorocarbon Ukulele Strings. Worth ukulele strings are unlike most other nylon ukulele strings as they are made from an expensive flourocarbon material that improves intonation, note clarity, and sustain. These are sold in double length sets so each package actually contains enough string to make two sets. Extra long, each string can be cut in half before installation.

 

[UkeStuff]

Interesting. I’ve read that too. Didn’t realize the Browns weren’t pure fluorocarbon, though it makes sense now that I think about it. I wonder what they have in them that would wear down the frets?

I’ll correct myself. I was thinking about Aquila Reds. I also thought that Worth Browns had some texture which would eat at a plastic fret—so I went to a couple of my instruments with Worth Browns (e.g. Cocobolo Concert and Aklot 8 String) and the Worth Browns are not textured at all.

They are fluorocarbon, as are Fremont Blacks.

So Browns would be okay. For sure, avoid Aquila Reds on any kind of plastic ukulele—as well as any wound strings (other than the Tenor Enya Nova Pro).

 

[JukeManJole]

Thanks! I’ll give the browns a try next.

 

[scarver]

I’ll correct myself. I was thinking about Aquila Reds. I also thought that Worth Browns had some texture which would eat at a plastic fret—so I went to a couple of my instruments with Worth Browns (e.g. Cocobolo Concert and Aklot 8 String) and the Worth Browns are not textured at all.

They are fluorocarbon, as are Fremont Blacks.

So Browns would be okay. For sure, avoid Aquila Reds on any kind of plastic ukulele—as well as any wound strings (other than the Tenor Enya Nova Pro).

Thanks for the clarification. I thought I was going crazy on this one.

 

[chris667]

There have been some reported cases of Worth Browns eating away at the plastic frets on these and other plastic/polycarbonate ukuleles.

There are indeed reported cases of strings eating at plastic fretboards but honestly? My most played uke (currently a bit poorly as one of the cleats used to repair an earlier break) has really deep gouges that I and its previous owners have put in its fretboard. I have played maybe two hours a day on it for ten years now. It was made in the 1950s and played a lot before then.

Yes, it looks ugly but it is still possible to fret it.

 

[PTRarch.]

So, let's approach this with some science, shall we? Comparing on the hardness on the Rockwell-scale, a measure indicative of scratch resistance. The higher the number, the harder the material.

• Basic ABS is R80 to R115.
  • In fretboards etc. they add "carbon" - in reality graphite but saving "inforced with pencil lead" is not good marketing- to add some hardness (and a solid black colour).
  • Fretboards of polycarbonate? That varies between R70 and R95 if there is some glass fiber added. Again, adding graphite is common to raise hardness and add colour.
• Nylon (as commercially known) has many variants, highest tensile strength nylons vary between R100 and R120. Black nylon strings (not any carbon involved) are slightly "softer" nylon.
• Fluorocarbon as commercially available ranges even wider, between R50 and R120

Now you do the maths...

But wait!

How about surface structure? Compare those on nylon and fluorocarbon. That i.m.o. adds more to the risk of abrasion.

My experience? Having a Flea with a "plastic fingerboard" (polycarbonate according Magic Fluke, no further detailed chemical / atomic structure available) for about 12 years, strung with D'Addario 53's, no wear whatsoever.

But we're wandering off-topic I guess ...

Just: don't use the expanding foam. Really. Don't...