Moore Bettah Ukuleles
Well-known member
The uke looks good. I've got to mention a couple of tips on the MiSi installation that will make it perform better. I install a lot of them and I've also had to fix other people's installation.
While the entire 20" shielded wire is somewhat active, it's only the last 4" of the UST, the flattened area, that is really hot. The exception is the final 3/8" of the leading edge of the UST; there is no copper element at the very tip. (I sacrificed one and took it apart to see what was going on.) There is a common complaint that the "A" string isn't as active as the rest of the strings, this is why. This is especially true in a narrow width slot.
The solution is to feed the leading edge of the UST back into the bridge through a second hole in the saddle slot.
And since the entire cable is somewhat active, it's a good idea to coil up the excess to make sure it is not touching any part of the ukulele body.
While the entire 20" shielded wire is somewhat active, it's only the last 4" of the UST, the flattened area, that is really hot. The exception is the final 3/8" of the leading edge of the UST; there is no copper element at the very tip. (I sacrificed one and took it apart to see what was going on.) There is a common complaint that the "A" string isn't as active as the rest of the strings, this is why. This is especially true in a narrow width slot.
The solution is to feed the leading edge of the UST back into the bridge through a second hole in the saddle slot.
And since the entire cable is somewhat active, it's a good idea to coil up the excess to make sure it is not touching any part of the ukulele body.
