de Houtwinkel
Well-known member
Ha I'm totally fine with answering your questions here!... so you basically hook up your uke (soundboard) to a scope and look for a nice curve .
I really should be taking this elsewhere, right? (last ones, promise!)
- And you log all that data with construction specifics?
- Ever did a break-down of a vintage instrument like that to find the secret sauce?
(PS: my how really was for asking how you actually tune it, like with brace location and shaping, or varying top thicknesses in certain areas. But that's like asking you for the recipe of your special sauce I guess ...)
edit: I know that would have to be a too elaborate answer...
Why isn't there a spruce top with the grain perpendicular to the strings, not even on an archtop, that's what keeps me up at night...
I use a tapping method with a special high-tech dowel(rubber eraser tip on a dowel LOL) usually right around the bridge plate or specific brace. I am doing that right in front of a mic that is hooked up to software that can measure the frequency response. And really actually there is a bunch of data collected beforehand from the top wood. I gather the wood properties and test the 3 main nodes. That gives me a clear indication of where to set off from there, and more importantly a target thickness for the top.
Honestly there really isn't anything intricate about a vintage instrument whether it be an old Martin, or an old K brand uke. They are actually quite simple! Simple bracing, simple woods, simple everything. In fact most K brands have very similar bracing structure even today. They found their "sound" long ago, and they have stuck with it. That really falls into aural illusion theory but we can discuss that another time. The only important factor in a vintage uke is time. Everyone seeks that "vintage" sound, but we can replicate it with torrefied woods today. But I like to say the instruments built by luthiers like myself, will have a much better sound.
Yes to answer your "secret sauce" question....there isn't a secret! It is really about tuning an instrument to it's full potential. One of the many variables is the quality of the tonewood, construction, thinning the top as far as you can go without it breaking, and technique. There are many brace styles to choose from that all will output different sounds. It's not a one size fits all unless you want your uke to sound like the other 100s you find in a music store. Those ukes aren't reaching their full potential.