What is your exact layout for the cut/cuts of a Spanish heel?

[Cactus Bum]

I am laying out my cut for my Tenor uke Spanish heel. I referred to Robbie O'brien's fret to body/cut line image in his Luthier Tips du Jour video called "The Spanish heel". See that at 3:17 minutes here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXMhE2cIE_g. I also referred to Allen McFarlen's video called "Slotting the Spanish Heel". See that at 1:08 minutes here :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjcl2IjbCSM. They seem to be slightly different in where the cut is made in relation to the body/neck line.
It seems to me a critical cut like this would be better for me if I had a rule of thumb to fully understand it. I had planned to do as Allen says and make the cut just a nats butt wider than the side thickness, i.e. no wedge, and at a slight angle of 1 to 3 degrees, as Robbie and Allen both do. How do you do it? Sorry to be so anal about it, but hey, it's lutherie. Any help appreciated. Thanks, Michael

 

[Cactus Bum]

Another layout example that more or less follows the O'brien layout can be found here. http://www.pemicheletti.com/side-slots-in-spanish-heel/. For both of these layouts the cut is entirely below, and does not cross, the layout line.

 

[Red Cliff]

I am laying out my cut for my Tenor uke Spanish heel. I referred to Robbie O'brien's fret to body/cut line image in his Luthier Tips du Jour video called "The Spanish heel". See that at 3:17 minutes. I also referred to Allen McFarlen's video called "Slotting the Spanish Heel". See that at 1:08 minutes. They seem to be slightly different in where the cut is made in relation to the body/neck line.
It seems to me a critical cut like this would be better for me if I had a rule of thumb to fully understand it. I had planned to do as Allen says and make the cut just a nats butt wider than the side thickness, i.e. no wedge, and at a slight angle of 1 to 3 degrees, as Robbie and Allen both do. How do you do it? Sorry to be so anal about it, but hey, it's lutherie. Any help appreciated. Thanks, Michael

I'm not seeing what you are seeing in the video, they both have a small angle and use a table saw to make the cut - what is the difference that has you confused?

There is no right answer to wedge Vs non-wedge, it is just preference. No wedge requires you to have the side thickness quite precise to fit whatever kerf your saw makes. The wedge approach is more forgiving but you have to spend time getting the wedge shaped. Whether or not your cut is parallel or at a slight angle depends on the plantilla shape of your uke. But both approaches work fine.

 

[Kelali Kev]

So far I only do Spanish heel construction. After watching both videos, the slight difference on where the cuts meet relative to the fret line is so minuscule as to be irrelevant. You are talking a millimeter fore or aft of the fret line which will not be apparent in the final product. What is more important is that the 2 cuts end at the the same perpendicular fret line for proper appearance of the sides lining up. Both videos refer to the 12th fret line where they are cutting, so be sure you want to make a 12th fret or 14th fret connection on you ukulele. My saw blade is not as thin as my sides, so I usually need to shim the sides tight to the neck while installing the sides. I assume that is what you are talking about when you refer to a wedge. I also cut mine at 3%, but you can vary according to your design. This is also an art and not just a science, so there is leniency for your personal taste.

 

[Cactus Bum]

Red Cliff, The difference is one person cuts entirely below the fret line, and the other person's cut crosses the fret line. Being a new, very amateur builder, I wondered whether the slight difference would be irrelevant or not. Kelai says it will make no difference and just make sure both cuts match. I get it now. This is my first Spanish heel and I am just now getting the concept through my thick skull. Thank you both for your responses.

 

[eclipsme]

Cactus, I am not an expert but have made 8 or 9 sopranos using the Spanish Heel construction. From my limited experience, I can assure you that these items do not seem critical to me, and other comments seem to bear this out.

I believe that whether you make slots that stop short of the 12th fret (soprano) or go through it, and at what angle has more to do with how the 12th aligns visibly with the body.

On one occasion, I completely forgot to angle this cut, instead making a 90 degree slot. I thought I had ruined my neck but instead discovered that I could simply rebend the upper bout of the sides tighter to intersect at the required angle.

You get a bit of a second chance at getting this location where you want it when you glue on the fretboard. Within limits, you can slide it up or down to position the 12th where you want it, keeping in mind the location of the nut in relation to the transition to the head.

Perhaps I have muddied things further - I hope not. Good luck!

 

[Jardin]

The difference is one person cuts entirely below the fret line, and the other person's cut crosses the fret line. Being a new, very amateur builder, I wondered whether the slight difference would be irrelevant or not.

In a way it is irrelevant.....However, the thing that this will change, that may matter, is where the bridge will be located. But it can be done either way as long as bridge placement is taken into consideration.

I would suggest that you get a set of plans or a kit and build to those specs....then once you have that under your belt you should have a basic understanding of how these parts effect one another.

I hope I am understanding your question and that this helps answer it....

Best of luck on the build!

 

[Pete Howlett]

This might interest you:



Watch it to the end where he talks about Torres (Jose wrote the definitive book on Antonio de Torres)... feeling a bit like that

 

[eclipsme]

In a way it is irrelevant.....However, the thing that this will change, that may matter, is where the bridge will be located. But it can be done either way as long as bridge placement is taken into consideration.

Yes, good comment! Where you glue the frettboard to the neck will certainly affect the placement of the bridge.